rches whose foundation dates from the time of
Constantine.) The five general councils known as the "Lateran Councils"
were held here. It is called "The Mother and Head of all the Churches of
the City and the World," and takes precedence even of St. Peter's in
point of sanctity. The portico and doors are very fine, and the interior
possesses much of interest; it is divided into five aisles, resting on
lateral arches and pilasters. Here, in 1300, Pope Boniface VIII.
proclaimed the Jubilee from the balcony, Dante being present on the
occasion. The Corsini Chapel is said to be the richest in Rome, some
half a million sterling having been squandered on it. There are some
very fine mosaics and paintings by Guido, Sacchi, and others. Like most
of the churches, it has a great many legends attaching to it to enhance
its interest. Among other pretended relics shown here are two pillars
from the temple of Jerusalem, the well of Samaria, and the table used at
the Last Supper. The Scala Santa, or holy stairs, on the palace side of
the church, and detached from it, are composed of twenty-eight black
marble steps, said to have belonged to the palace of Pontius Pilate at
Jerusalem. Penitents ascend these steps on their knees (no foot being
allowed to touch them), praying as they go, in order to visit a
sanctorum at the top, which contains a portrait of the Saviour, painted,
so the priests tell us, _by St. Luke at twelve years of age_. They
descend by other steps, and thus they acquire so many days' or years'
indulgence. An Englishman, a fellow-traveller, told me that he had
ascended the steps as described, not being allowed to do otherwise, and
he found it very sore work for his poor knees--and "Serve him right,"
thought I. In one of the adjoining chapels of this church an attendant
sells pictures and relics. There is no real reverence here for sanctity
of the House of God, as is shown by thus turning it into a house of
merchandize, and also by the vile and unpleasant habit indulged in of
spitting all over the beautiful mosaic and marble floors.

The Borgo Novice is the finest street in this part of the city.

CHAPTER XII.

Excursion to Tivoli--Sulphur baths--Memories--Temple of the Sybil--River
Anio--Lovely scenery--Back to Rome--Post-office--Careless officials--The
everlasting "Weed"--Climate of Rome--Discomforts and disappointments--
Young Italy--Leo XIII.--Italian Politics--Cessation of Brigandag