strikes across the
Pontine marshes. Velletri, the site of an old city of the Volscians, and
the birthplace of Augustus, is picturesquely situated half-way up Monte
Arriano in the Alban Hills. Its raised walls were built by Coriolanus.
Here the railway, leaving the old route towards the Naples frontier and
along the Appian Way, strikes inland among the hills. Not far from this
spot, on the old Appian coach road, is "Tres Tabernae," or "Three
Taverns," where St Paul met the brethren after his landing at Puteoli.
This old road is so full of interest, that we hope to be able to travel
by it more leisurely on a future occasion--especially as brigandage,
once a common occurrence, is now a thing of the past, since Italy is
under a strong and honest government.

The whole route is grandly picturesque, circling round mountains and
hills, and through romantic passes; churches and towers finely pinnacled
on the summits and situated here and there on the slopes. The ancient
Romans made these places their summer residences, enclosing the wild and
wooded parts as hunting-grounds, and the more beautiful spots near the
shore as luxurious health resorts.

Travelling as usual second-class, and therefore by a slow train, the
journey was rather long. _En route_ we were allowed ample time for
luncheon at one of the stations. In a former chapter, I mentioned how
greatly wanting in necessary comfort the French railway stations were,
especially for ladies. Here in Italy I think it is, if possible, worse
still. It is really a scandal and disgrace that, while reaping so much
benefit from the stream of visitors from every part of the world,
proper accommodation is not provided for them. This is really a great
evil, and should certainly be attended to by the proper authorities
without delay.

After eight hours' journey we came through a bold pass suddenly in full
view of the sea coast, then wound round towards Naples from the south.
In the dusk of the evening, we looked forth to see--

"How night hath hushed the clamour and the stir
Of the tumultuous streets. The cloudless moon
Roofs the whole city as with tiles of silver;
The dim mysterious sea in silence sleeps;
And straight into the air Vesuvius lifts
His plume of smoke."

[F] Many of these are now flourishing with friends in North Wales.

CHAPTER XIII.

Naples--Bristol Hotel--Via Roma--King Bomba's time--Deterioration of