e Genoese ladies, who under more favourable
circumstances would have been graceful and good-looking, appeared
unaccustomed to this severity of weather, and hurried along with red
noses and pinched faces.

Of all our visits to interesting places in this ancient city our
excursion to the Campo Santo gave us the most pleasure. It is some three
or four miles from the city: the weather continuing cold, we preferred
walking. We went up the main street, through the valley at the foot of
the snow-clad hills we had seen before, and in little more than an hour
we arrived at the gates of the Cemetery. This Campo Santo is indeed most
eloquently illustrative of loving reverence and remembrance of the dead,
and is quite a museum of beautiful monumental statuary.

This burial-ground is a system of sheltered colonnades, where the dead
are deposited in sarcophagi, resting on shelves on the inner walls, tier
upon tier. Only the very poor people seem to be buried in the _common
earth_, in the open spaces which lie before the colonnades, and these
are crowded. It rather shocked us to see the gravedigger remove some
bones from the ground and throw them into a kind of bin, which was there
for the purpose, in order to make room for a new corpse. I thought, with
Hamlet--

"Did these bones cost no more the breeding, but to play at loggats
with them? Mine ache to think on't."

The colonnades are paved with marble, and are scrupulously clean. Some
have exquisite monuments and statuary, the figures most eloquently
expressive of tender feelings of both joy and sorrow. The draperies and
lacework are wonderfully real. One we thought especially beautiful. The
bereaved mourners are reluctant to part with their beloved relative and
endeavour to detain him, but an angel gently leads him away; and he,
though expressing love and sympathy for his friends, gladly follows his
winged guide to a happier world above. Another portrays a little girl,
tripping joyfully out from the tomb, over roses and other blossoming
flowers. There are hundreds of others, full of deep pathos, works of
Italy's greatest sculptors.

One tomb is said to have cost some L5000. The patriot Mazzini is buried
here. At the highest point of the cemetery is a rotunda chapel, with
very fine statuary of Moses and the prophets, Adam and Eve, and many
other subjects.

There is an echo in this chapel that is wonderfully and unusually clear
and distinct.

The shops at Genoa are sm