s a grand prospect of the rude mountains of Moidart and
Knoidart[451]. Behind are hills gently rising and covered with a finer
verdure than I expected to see in this climate, and the scene is
enlivened by a number of little clear brooks.

Sir Alexander Macdonald having been an Eton scholar[452], and being a
gentleman of talents, Dr. Johnson had been very well pleased with him in
London[453]. But my fellow-traveller and I were now full of the old
Highland spirit, and were dissatisfied at hearing of racked rents and
emigration, and finding a chief not surrounded by his clan. Dr. Johnson
said, 'Sir, the Highland chiefs should not be allowed to go farther
south than Aberdeen. A strong-minded man, like Sir James Macdonald[454],
may be improved by an English education; but in general, they will be
tamed into insignificance.'

We found here Mr. Janes of Aberdeenshire, a naturalist. Janes said he
had been at Dr. Johnson's in London, with Ferguson the astronomer[455].
JOHNSON. 'It is strange that, in such distant places, I should meet with
any one who knows me. I should have thought I might hide myself in Sky.'

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 3.

This day proving wet, we should have passed our time very uncomfortably,
had we not found in the house two chests of books, which we eagerly
ransacked. After dinner, when I alone was left at table with the few
Highland gentlemen who were of the company, having talked with very high
respect of Sir James Macdonald, they were all so much affected as to
shed tears. One of them was Mr. Donald Macdonald, who had been
lieutenant of grenadiers in the Highland regiment, raised by Colonel
Montgomery, now Earl of Eglintoune, in the war before last; one of those
regiments which the late Lord Chatham prided himself in having brought
from 'the mountains of the North[456]:' by doing which he contributed to
extinguish in the Highlands the remains of disaffection to the present
Royal Family. From this gentleman's conversation, I first learnt how
very popular his Colonel was among the Highlanders; of which I had such
continued proofs, during the whole course of my Tour, that on my return
I could not help telling the noble Earl himself, that I did not before
know how great a man he was.

We were advised by some persons here to visit Rasay, in our way to
Dunvegan, the seat of the Laird of Macleod. Being informed that the Rev.
Mr. Donald M'Queen was the most intelligent man in Sky, and having been
favoured wi