he place of that
name, you will find the artists and sculptors of the Butte.

In the Quartier, Thurion's in the Boulevard St-Germain is an interesting
restaurant for a wandering Anglo-Saxon to become acquainted with, for
there he will see most of the young Americans and English who are
climbing up the ladder of pictorial fame. It is a Parisian "Cheshire
Cheese." The floors are sawdusted, the waiters rush about in hot haste,
and the chickens stray in from the courtyard at the back and pick up the
crumbs round the tables. The place has its traditions, and you can hear
tales of Dickens and Thackeray from the plump lady who makes up the
bills.

Good Cheap Restaurants

I feel tempted in connection with this heading to write as did the
naturalist of snakes in Iceland; but besides the _tavernes_ and
_bouillons_, which give wonderful value for the money spent but do not
require any lengthy mention in a book dealing with temples of the higher
art, there are one or two interesting _table-d'hote_ restaurants where
the meals are very cheap. One of these is Philippe's, on the first floor
of the Palais Royal, next door to the Petit Vefour, and another is the
Diner Francais, 27 Bd. des Italiens.

St-Germain

The Pavillion Henri IV., on the terrace of St-Germain, where every
travelling Briton and American breakfasts once during his summer stay in
Paris, is "run" by the management of the Champeaux, and one gets very
excellent cookery and service in consequence, the prices not being at
all exorbitant. One groans, sitting at the little tables on the terraces
and looking at the view, to think of the chances some of our hotels near
London, with even finer views, throw away through lack of enterprise.

St-Cloud

The Pavillion Bleu at St-Cloud, the proprietor of which, M. Moreaux,
bought the greater portion of the "grands vins" of the Maison d'Or,
deserves a special word of commendation.

N.N.-D.

CHAPTER II

FRENCH PROVINCIAL TOWNS

The northern ports--Norman and Breton towns--The west coast and
Bordeaux--Marseilles and the Riviera--The
Pyrenees--Provence--Aix-les-Bains and other "cure" places.

I propose to take you, my gastronomic reader, first on a little tour
round the coast of France from north-east round to south-east, pausing
at any port or any watering-place where there is any restaurant of any
mark, and then to make a few incursions inland.

Calais is, of course, our starting-place, a