nder the shade of some umbrageous tree.
Through a long road, lined at intervals, were the remains of the Sphinx,
of which we have so often read. The ruins are most imposing, excavations
were still being made. The Nile's inundations are fast making inroads,
undermining the foundations, especially at Luxor, which temple is
located so near the bank. We linger and gaze on the stupendous work,
even in its crumbling, tottering condition it is one of the wonders of
the age. We find the Scarabaeus are bought here to an advantage. The
Arabs, however, have no scruples in selling false beetles for the
genuine ones that are sometimes taken from the tombs in excavating. They
are becoming more and more rare. Mummies, so diminutive, made of metal
or plaster, Stela, a small column, having neither base or capital, which
are sold as the genuine antique, is manufactured almost within sight.
One of the amusing scenes on shipboard is to see purchasers comparing
these articles; their ignorance of their value is laughable. The beetle,
or Scarabaeus, is a symbol with this ancient people of "eternal
duration." We are told it lays its eggs near the shores of the Nile,
afterwards to roll them through the dust and sand to a safe place of
deposit, thus providing for a perpetuation of their species. I am not an
admirer of the beetle, consequently bought no reminders of the bug. I
did buy here a string of red cornelian beads, not for their value but as
good specimens. The trip to the tombs of the kings, most laborious of
all, I declined to take. I did not feel I was able, but by remaining
alone on board of the steamer was like choosing between two evils. The
days when the vessel is deserted the crew go through a systematic house
cleaning process. Truly, there is not a dry place for the sole of your
foot. My only safety was in bed, but even there intrusions were
frequent. Like all Oriental workmen, they sway the body and keep time to
the scrub brush and broom with their voices, in a monotonous wail of
Allah! Allah! After some six to eight hours it grows a trifle irksome,
as it is incessant, so that I quite resolved before the day was over
that tombs were pleasant places to visit and donkeys delightful animals
upon which to ride. When a half-hour's ride was suggested, the next day,
to the temple of "Rameses the Great" and tomb known as "35," I did not
remain on deck, but on the contrary wandered through the Judgment Hall
of Osiris, and through the temple