ing. I give a translation of a portion of one of them, a
song that is frequently repeated by the peasants in the vicinity of
Moscow and Nijne Novgorod. It is proper to explain that a _troika_ is
a team of three horses abreast, the _douga_ is the yoke above the
shaft-horse's neck, and Valdai is the town on the Moscow and St.
Petersburg road where the best and most famous bells of Russia are
made.

A RUSSIAN SLEIGHING SONG.

Away, away, along the road
The fiery troika bounds,
While 'neath the douga, sadly sweet,
The Valdai bell resounds.

Away, away, we leave the town,
Its roofs and spires behind,
The crystal snow-flakes dance around
As o'er the steppe we wind.

Away, away, the glittering stars
Shine greeting from above,
Our hearts beat fast as on we glide,
Swift as the flying dove.

CHAPTER L.

We found the road much better after leaving the government of Perm and
entering that of Viatka. The yemshicks we took in this region were
"Votiaks," descendants of the Finnish races that dwelt there before
the Russian conquest. They had the dark physiognomy of the Finns, and
spoke a mixture of their own language and Russian. They have been
generally baptized and brought into the Greek churches, though they
still adhere to some of their ancient forms of worship. They pay taxes
to the crown, but their local administration is left to themselves.

Approaching Malmouish we had a sullen driver who insisted upon going
slowly, even while descending hills. Indignantly I suggested giving
the fellow a kick for his drink money. The doctor attempted to be
stern and reproved the delinquent, but ended with giving him five
copecks and an injunction to do better in future. I opposed making
undeserved gratuities, and after this occurrence determined to say no
more about rewards to drivers during the rest of the journey.

Memorandum for travelers making the Siberian tour:

An irritable disposition, (like mine,) should not be placed with an
amiable one, (like the doctor's.) If misery loves company, so does
anger; and a petulant man should have an associate who _can_ be
ruffled.

After leaving the Votiaks, we entered the country of the Tartars, the
descendants of the followers of Genghis Khan, who carried the Mongol
standard into Central Europe. Russia remained long under their yoke,
and the Tartars of the present day live as a distinct people in
various parts of the empire. They are nearly all Mohammedans, and th