enough to cover us in a short time, and
we very soon concluded to let the wind have its own way. The road was
filled, and in many places we had hard work to get through. How the
yemshicks found the way was a mystery. Once at a station, when the
smotretal announced "gotovey," I was actually unable to find the
sleigh, though it stood not twenty feet from the door. The yemshicks
said they were guided by the telegraph posts, which followed the line
of road.

We were four hours making twenty-five versts to the last station
before reaching Kazan. We took a hearty supper of soup, eggs, and
bread, under a suspicion that we might remain out all night. Once the
mammoth sleigh came up with us in the dark, and its shafts nearly ran
us through. Collisions of this kind happened occasionally on the road,
but were rarely as forcible as this one. We were twice on our beam
ends and nearly overturned, and on several occasions stuck in the
snow. By good luck we managed to arrive at Kazan about 2 A. M. On
reaching the hotel, we were confronted by what I thought a snow
statue, but which proved to be the _dvornik_, or watchman. Our baggage
was taken up stairs, while we shook the snow from our furs. The
samovar shortened our visages and filled our stomachs with tea. We
retired to rest upon sofas and did not rise until a late hour.

It happened to be New Year's, and the fashionable society of Kazan was
doing its congratulations. I drove through the principal part of the
city and found an animated scene. Numberless and numbered droskies
were darting through the streets, carrying gayly dressed officers
making their ceremonious calls. Soldiers were parading with bands of
music, and the lower classes were out in large numbers. The storm had
ceased, the weather was warm, and everything was propitious for
out-door exercise.

The soldiers were the first I had seen since entering Europe, and
impressed me favorably with the Russian army. They wore grey uniforms,
like those I saw in Siberia, and marched with a regular and steady
stride. It was not till I had reached St. Petersburg that I saw the
_elite_ of the Emperor's military forces. The reforms of Alexander
have not left the army untouched. Great improvements have been made in
the last twelve or fifteen years. More attention has been paid to the
private soldiers than heretofore, their pay being increased and time
of service lessened. The Imperial family preserves its military
character, and the p