xtensive plain.

We halted at Ghafsa, [37] which is almost a mass of rubbish filled with
dirty people, although there are plenty of springs about, principally
hot and mineral waters. Although the Moors, by their religion, are
enjoined the constant use of the bath, yet because they do not change
their linen and other clothes, they are always very dirty. They do not,
however, exceed the Maltese and Sicilians, and many other people of the
neighbourhood, in filth, and perhaps the Moors are cleaner in their
hahits than they. The Arabs are extremely disgusting, and their women
are often seen in a cold winter's evening, standing with their legs
extended over a smoky wood fire, holding up their petticoats, and
continuing in this indelicate position for hours together.

In these Thermae, or hot, sulphurous, and other mineral springs, is the
phenomenon of the existence of fish and small snakes. These were
observed by our tourists, but I shall give three other authorities
besides them. Shaw says: "'The Ouri-el-Nout,' _i.e_., 'Well of Fish,'
and the springs of Ghasa and Toser, nourish a number of small fishes of
the mullet and perch kind, and are of an easy digestion. Of the like
quality are the other waters of the Jereed, all of them, after they
become cold, being the common drink of the inhabitants." Sir Grenville
Temple remarks: "The thermometer in the water marked ninety-five
degrees; and, what is curious, a considerable number of fish is found in
this stream, which measure from four to six inches in length, and
resemble, in some degree, the gudgeon, having a delicate flavour. Bruce
mentions a similar fact, but he says he saw it in the springs of
Feriana. Part of the ancient structure of these baths still exists, and
pieces of inscriptions are observed in different places."

Mr. Honneger has made a sketch of this fish. The wood-cut represents it
one half the natural size:

[Illustration]

The snake, not noticed by former tourists, has been observed by Mr.
Honneger, which nourishes itself entirely upon the fish. The wood-cut
represents the snake half its natural size:

[Illustration]

The fish and the snake live together, though not very amicably, in the
hot-springs. Prince Puekler Muskau, who travelled in Tunis, narrates
that, "Near the ruins of Utica was a warm spring, in whose almost hot
waters we found several turtles, _which seemed to inhabit this basin_."

However, perhaps, there is no such extraordinary difficult