d the
tranquil life of nobles, the most void of care, and, perhaps, the
happiest of which contemplative philosophy ever dreamed. The oasis of
Nefta, indeed, is said to be the most poetic of the Desert; its gardens
are delicious; its oranges and lemons sweet; its dates the finest fruit
in the "land of dates." Nearly all the women are pretty, of that beauty
peculiar to the Oriental race; and the ladies who do not expose
themselves to the fierce sun of the day, are as fair as Mooresses.

Santa Maria left for Ghabs, to which place there is not a correct route
laid down in any chart. There are three routes, but the wells of one are
only known to travellers, a knowledge which cannot be dispensed with in
these dry regions. The wells of the other two routes are known to the
bordering tribes alone, who, when they have taken a supply of water,
cover them up with sand, previously laying a camel-skin over the
well-mouth, to prevent the sand falling into the water, so that, while
dying with thirst, you might be standing on a well and be none the
wiser. The Frenchman has taken with him an escort of twelve men. The
weather is cooler, with a great deal of wind, raising and darkening the
sky with sand; even among the dategroves our eyes and noses were like so
many sand-quarries.

Sheikh Tahib has been twice subjected to corporal punishment in the same
way as before mentioned, with the addition of fifty, but they cannot
make him bleed as they wish. He declares he has not got the money, and
that he cannot pay them, though they cut him to pieces. As he has
collected a great portion of the tribute of the people, one cannot much
pity the lying rogue.

We were amused with the snake-charmers. These gentry are a company under
the protection of their great saint Sidi Aysa, who has long gone
upwards, but also is now profitably employed in helping the juggling of
these snake-mountebanks. These fellows take their snakes about in small
bags or boxes, which are perfectly harmless, their teeth and poison-bags
being extracted. They carry them in their bosoms, put them in their
mouths, stuffing a long one in of some feet in length, twist them around
their arms, use them as a whip to frighten the people, in the meanwhile
screaming out and crying unto their Heavenly protector for help, the
bystanders devoutly joining in their prayers. The snake-charmers usually
perform other tricks, such as swallowing nails and sticking an iron bar
in their eyes; and t