rtake such long
journeys, merely for the purpose of examining old heaps of stones, and
making plans and pictures of such rubbish. When any person attempts to
convince the Arabs that this is the sole object, they only laugh with
incredulity.

Went to Nefta, a ride of about fourteen miles, lying somewhat nearer the
Sahara than Toser. The country on the right was undulating sand, on the
left an apparently boundless ocean, where lies, as a vast sheet of
liquid fire, when the sun shines on it, the now long celebrated Palus
Libya. In this so-called lake no water is visible, except a small marsh
like the one near Toser, where we went duck-shooting. Our party was very
respectable, consisting of the Agha of the Arabs, two or three of the
Bey's mamelukes, the Kaed of the Jereed, whose name is Braun, and fifty
or sixty Arab guards, besides ourselves. On entering Nefta, the escort
immediately entered, according to custom, a marabet (that of Sidi Bou
Aly), Captain B. and R. meanwhile standing outside.

There were two famous saints here, one of whom was a hundred years of
age. The other, Sidi Mustapha Azouz, had the character of being a very
clever and good man, which also his intelligent and benevolent
appearance betokened, and not a fanatic, like Amour Abeda of Kairwan.
There were at the time of our visit to him about two hundred people in
his courtyard, who all subsisted on his charities. We were offered
dates, kouskousou, [39] and a seed which they call sgougou, and which
has the appearance of dried apple-seed. The Arabs eat it with honey,
first dipping their fingers into the honey, and then into the seed,
which deliciously sticks to the honey. The Sheikh's saint also
distributed beads and rosaries. He gave R. a bag of sgougou-seed, as
well as some beads. These two Sheikhs are objects of most religious
veneration amongst all true believers, and there is nothing which would
not be done at their bidding.

Nefta, the Negeta of the ancients, is the frontier town of the Tunisian
territories from the south, being five days' journey, or about
thirty-five or forty leagues from the oases of Souf, and fifteen days'
from Ghadumes. Nefta is not so much a town as an agglomeration of
villages, separated from one another by gardens, and occupying an extent
of surface twice the size that of the city of Algiers. These villages
are Hal Guema, Mesaba, Zebda Ouled, Sherif, Beni Zeid, Beni Ali, Sherfa,
and Zaouweeah Sidi Ahmed.

The position of