plains, over which ran troops of gazelles, and had many
gallops after them; but they go much faster than the greyhound, and,
unless headed and bullied, there is little chance of taking them, except
found asleep. On coming on a troop unawares, R. shot one, which the dogs
caught. R. went up afterwards to cut its throat _a la Moresque_, when he
was insulted by an Arab. R. noticed the fellow, and afterwards told the
Bey, who instantly ordered him to receive two hundred bastinadoes, and
to be put in chains; but, just as they had begun to whip him, R. went up
and generously begged him off. This is the end of most bastinados in the
country. We passed a stream which they said had swallowed up some
persons, and was very dangerous. A muddy stream, they add, is often very
fatal to travellers. The Bey surprised Captain B. by sending him a
handsome black horse as a present; he also sent a grey one to the
Frenchman, who, when complaining of it, saying that it was a bad one, to
the Bey's mamelukes, his Highness sent for it, and gave him another.
Under such circumstances, Saint Mary ought to have looked very foolish.
The Bey shot a kader, a handsome bird, rather larger than a partridge,
with black wings, and flies like a plover. We had a large
hawking-establishment with us, some twenty birds, very fine falconry,
which sometimes carried off hares, and even attacked young goat-kids.
Marched to a place called Gilma, near which the road passes through an
ancient town. Shaw says, "Gilma, the ancient Cilma, or Oppidum
Chilmanenense, is six leagues to the east-south-east of Spaitla. We have
here the remains of a large city, with the area of a temple, and some
other fragments of large buildings. According to the tradition of the
Arabs, this place received its name in consequence of a miracle
pretended to have been wrought by one of their marabouts, in bringing
hither the river of Spaitla, after it was lost underground. For Ja Elma
signifies, in their language, 'The water comes!' an expression we are to
imagine of surprise at the arrival of the stream."

During our tour, the mornings were generally cold. We proceeded about
twenty miles, and encamped near a place called Wady Tuckah. This river
comes from the hills about three or four miles off, and when the camp
arrives at Kairwan, the Bey sends an order to the Arabs of the district
to let the water run down to the place where the tents are pitched. When
we arrived, the water had just come. We s