aw or excelsior if the air
in the cellar or shed is such as to dry out the surface.

Test the moisture content according to directions on page 255.

Watch the temperature. Do not let it rise above 130 deg. F. When it is
down to 90 deg. F. or 70 deg. F., if the manure has a "sweetish" or
"mushroomy" smell it is ready to spawn.

Spawn according to directions on page 263.

Soil according to directions on page 266; cover bed with straw or
excelsior.

=Second Method.=--Use horse droppings freed from the coarser
material. Proceed as in _first_ method.

=Third Method.=--Use horse droppings freed from coarser material.
Pile and _pack firmly_. Do not let temperature rise above 130 deg. F.
When it has cooled to 100 deg. F., make up the beds, at the same time
mixing in an _equal quantity_ of rich loam or rotted sod. Spawn in
a day or two.

In beginning, practice on a small scale and study the conditions
thoroughly, as well as the directions given in this chapter.

FOOTNOTES:

[D] I have not learned the history of the other kinds of spawn referred
to above.

CHAPTER XXI.

RECIPES FOR COOKING MUSHROOMS.

By MRS. SARAH TYSON RORER.

As varieties of mushrooms differ in analysis, texture and density of
flesh, different methods of cooking give best results. For instance, the
_Coprinus micaceus_, being very delicate, is easily destroyed by
over-cooking; a dry, quick pan of the "mushroom bells" retains the best
flavor; while the more dense _Agaricus campestris_ requires long, slow
cooking to bring out the flavor, and to be tender and digestible.
Simplicity of seasoning, however, must be observed, or the mushroom
flavor will be destroyed. If the mushroom itself has an objectionable
flavor, better let it alone than to add mustard or lemon juice to
overcome it. Mushrooms, like many of the more succulent vegetables, are
largely water, and readily part with their juices on application of salt
or heat; hence it becomes necessary to put the mushroom over the fire
usually without the addition of water, or the juices will be so diluted
that they will lack flavor. They have much better flavor cooked without
peeling, with the exception of puff-balls, which should always be pared.
As they lose their flavor by soaking, wash them quickly, a few at a
time; take the mushroom in the left hand and with the right hand wash
the top or pileus, using e