and he neither knew himself nor could recommend any Brother
who knew anything about the glaciere. He was a German, and we talked of
his native Baiern and the modern glories of his capital; and when his
questions elicited a declaration of my profession, he passed up to
Saxony, and pinned me with Luther. Finding that I objected to being so
pinned, and repudiated something of that which his charge involved, he
waived Luther, of whom he knew nothing beyond his name, and came down
upon me triumphantly with the word Protestant. I explained to him, of
course, that the worthy Elector, and his friends who protested, had not
much to do with the Anglican branch of the Church Catholic; and then the
old task had to be gone through of assuring the assembled Brothers that
we in England have Sacraments, have Orders, have a Trinitarian Creed.

At length, about half-past three, we started for Besancon, paying of
course _a volonte_ for food and entertainment, as we did not choose to
qualify as paupers. The driver told me on the way that there was another
glaciere at Vaise, a village three or four kilometres from Besancon, and
at no great distance from the road by which we should approach the town;
so, when we reached the crest above Morre, where the road passes the
final ridge by means of a tunnel, I paid the carriage off, and walked to
the village of Vaise. The public-house knew of the glaciere--knew indeed
of two,--further still, kept the keys of both. This was good news,
though the idea of keys in connection with an ice-cave was rather
strange; and I proposed to organise an expedition at once to the
glacieres. The male half of the auberge declared that he was forbidden
to open them to strangers, except by special order from a certain
monsieur in Besancon; but the female half, scenting centimes, stated her
belief that the monsieur in Besancon could never wish them to turn away
a stranger who had come so many kilometres through the dust to see the
ice. She put the proposed disobedience in so persuasive and Christian a
form, that I was obliged to take the husband's side,--not that he was in
any need of support, for he had been longer married than Adam was, and
showed no signs of giving way. It turned out, after all, that though
there was no doubt about the existence of the glacieres, there was
equally no doubt that they were _glacieres artificielles_, being simply
ice-houses dug in the side of a hill, and the property of a _glacier_ in
Bes