n the Sydney route, where for this
purpose he is aroused at midnight on the borders of Victoria. On passing
the limit of South Australia the traveller finds his watch to be
twenty-five minutes too fast, and makes the necessary alteration to
accommodate the local time in accordance with western longitude. It is a
tiresome journey,--or at least we found it so. There were few
first-class passengers, none of whom particularly interested a stranger
beyond general observation; moreover the road passes through what is
called the Ninety-mile Desert, which is desolate and barren indeed. The
miles seemed interminable; and it was a great relief at last when a
wooded country was reached, and there came into view open, well-fenced
fields, with here and there small groups of choice breeds of cattle and
sheep, and an occasional neat homestead.
In the course of this journey the Murray Bridge was crossed. This iron
structure spans the breadth of that great Australian water-way here
known as the Murray River, but which finds its source thousands of miles
to the north, in Queensland, where it is known as the Darling River.
After leaving Murray Bridge two large engines were necessary to draw our
train up the steep incline among the hills and mountains which separate
Adelaide from her eastern territory. These mechanical giants puffed and
panted with an almost human expression, in their vigorous struggle to
drag the train forward,--now and again hovering upon the very verge of
inability, and then, as it seemed to us, by putting forth renewed energy
and extraordinary effort, pressing forward and finally surmounting the
steep way. The aspect of the scenery rapidly changed for the better as
we advanced, and our spirits rose accordingly. Everything looked bright
and thrifty. Gardens, orchards, well-cultivated fields, and pleasant
roadside stations, with the summer residences of the citizens of
Adelaide, were rapidly passed, until Mount Lofty station was reached and
the descent toward the plains began. The traveller was soon gratified by
a bird's-eye view of the capital of South Australia, lying spread out
upon the plain, with the broad sea beyond glittering with mottled
sunshine.
Adelaide is surrounded by an amphitheatre of wooded hills rearing their
heads not far away from the city, and forms a very fine picture when
thus approached. The capital is so perfectly level that to be seen to
advantage it must be looked upon as a whole from some fa
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