ions. Vast snow-fields and glaciers exist among them, whence flow icy
streams to the lakes of the table-land. The southwest corner of the
island, as already intimated, is peculiarly indented by glacial action.
There are numerous large lakes in both the North and South islands,
notably in the district called Southland, in the South Island, where
there are twelve large bodies of fresh water. These lakes are usually
called the Cold Lakes of New Zealand, in distinction from those in the
North Island known as the Hot Lakes. Many of these bodies of water in
both sections are of enormous depth and of great scenic beauty. One is
often reminded of Scotland by the general scenery in New Zealand, both
countries being characterized by dark, serrated mountains casting sombre
shadows into still, deep bays. Lake Taupo in the central part of the
North Island covers an area of two hundred and fifty square miles. There
are numerous mountain ranges in the North especially, which are mostly
covered with forests, and three giant snow-capped mountains,--Ruapehu,
Tongariro, and Mount Egmont,--ranging from seven to ten thousand feet
each in height. The several portions of these islands differ materially
from one another; the strange volcanic developments of the North Island
are not repeated in the South. Of local peculiarities we shall speak in
detail as we progress.

It is not yet a hundred and twenty years since Captain Cook first
landed in New Zealand, and the numerous native population that then
swarmed upon its shores have dwindled to a comparative shadow of a once
formidable race. But it is the present, not the past, with which we have
mostly to do,--the present aspect of mountains, valleys, rivers, and
lakes; with the wonderful volcanic developments and present activity of
submerged forces that are exhibited in this peculiar country. Though
heroic deeds and historic associations have not hallowed these
localities, they are sufficiently unique in their own inherent charms to
be intensely attractive. One does not pause amid burning mountains,
boiling springs, and rushing geysers, to dwell on the want of human or
historic background; the marvellous sublimity of Nature is sufficient.
The bleaching bones of men and of extinct enormous birds, found among
the brown tussocks of these lonely plains and in these curious caves,
tell of a period long past,--and yet a period unhistoric and unheroic.
These pages will clearly show that there is no lack