ot only for their hareem
carriages, but for their own. They are occasionally seen, also, before
the victoria or the landau of European residents; but in this case their
Oriental dress accords ill with the stiff, tight Parisian costumes
behind them. Now and then one sees them perched on the back seat of an
English dog-cart, and here they look well; they always sit sidewise,
with one hand on the back of the seat, as though ready at a moment's
notice to spring out and begin flying again.

If the figures of the Cairo ladies are always well muffled, one has at
least abundant opportunity to admire the grace and strength of the women
of the working classes. When young they have a noble bearing. Their
usual dress is a long gown of very dark blue cotton, a black head veil,
and a thick black face veil that is kept in its place below the eyes by
a gilded ornament which looks like an empty spool. Often their
beautifully shaped slender feet are bare; but even the poorest are
decked with anklets, bracelets, and necklaces of beads, imitation silver
or brass. The men of the working classes wear blue gowns also, but the
blue is of a much lighter hue; many of them, especially the farmers and
farm laborers (called fellaheen), have wonderfully straight flat backs
and broad, strong shoulders. Europeans, when walking, appear at a great
disadvantage beside these loosely robed people; all their movements seem
cramped when compared with the free, effortless step of the Arab beside
them.

THE BAZAARS

One spends half one's time in the bazaars, perhaps. One admires them and
adores them; but one feels that their attraction cannot be made clear to
others by words. Nor can it be by the camera. There are a thousand
photographic views of Cairo offered for sale, but, with the exception of
an attempt at the gateway of the Khan Khaleel, not one copy of these
labyrinths, which is a significant fact. Their charm comes from color,
and this can be represented by the painter's brush alone. But even the
painter can render it only in bits. From a selfish point of view we
might perhaps be glad that there is one spot left on this earth whose
characteristic aspect cannot be reproduced, either upon the wall or the
pictured page, whose shimmering vistas must remain a purely personal
memory. We can say to those who have in their minds the same fantastic
vision, "Ah, _you_ know!" But we cannot make others know. For what is
the use of declaring that a collection o