But no matter what lies before us--even if they should pave the desert,
and establish an English tramway (or a line of American horse-cars) to
the Sphinx--these mighty masses cannot be belittled. There is something
in the pyramids which overawes our boasted civilization. In their
presence this seems trivial; it seems an impertinence.

THE COPTS

The most interesting of the Coptic churches are at Old Cairo, a mother
suburb, where the first city was founded by the conquering Arabian army.
Here, ensconced amid hill-like mounds of rubbish, concealed behind mud
walls, hidden at the end of blind alleys, one finds the temples of these
native Christians, who are the descendants of the converts of St. Mark.
The exterior walls have no importance. In truth, one seldom sees them,
for the churches are within other structures. Some of them form part of
old fortified convents; one is reached by passing through the
dwelling-rooms of an inhabited house; another is up-stairs in a Roman
tower. You arrive somehow at a door. When this is opened, you find
yourself in a church whose general aspect is rough, and whose aisles are
adorned with dust and sometimes with dirt. But these temples have their
treasures. Chief among them are the high choir screens of dark wood,
elaborately carved in panels, and decorated with morsels of ivory which
have grown yellow from age. The sculpture is not open-work; it does not
go through the panel; it is done in relief. The designs are Saracenic,
but these geometrical patterns are interrupted every now and then by
Christian emblems and by the Coptic cross. The style of this
wood-carving is unique; no other sculpture resembles it. If it does not
quite attain beauty, it is at least very odd and rich. There are also
carved doors representing Scriptural subjects, marble pulpits, singular
bronze candlesticks, brass censers adorned with little bells,
silver-gilt gospel-cases, embroidered vestments, silver marriage-diadems,
ostrich eggs in metal cases, and old Byzantine paintings, often
representing St. George, for St. George is the patron saint of the
Copts.

[Illustration: A DONKEY RIDE]

These people esteem themselves to be the true descendants of the ancient
Egyptians, as distinguished from the conquering race of Arabians who
have now overrun their land. It is a comical idea, but they call upon
us to note their close resemblance to the mummies. Early converts to
Christianity, they have remained faithful to