ctised ladies of
Billingsgate.

When the horses were ready the khangee came up to me in a towering
passion, swearing that I should pay for sitting under the tree.
"Englishman," said he, "get up and pay me what I demand, or you shall
not leave this place, by all that is holy." "Kiupek oglou," said I,
without moving from the ground, "Oh, son of a dog! go and get my horse,
you chattering magpie!" These few words in the language of the conqueror
had a marvellous effect on the khangee. "What does his worship say?" he
inquired of the dismal-faced man. "Why, he says you had better go and
get his excellency's worship's most respectable horse, if you have any
regard for your life: so go! be off! vanish! don't stay there staring at
the illustrious traveller. 'Tis lucky for you he doesn't order us to
cut you up into cabobs; go and get the horse; and perhaps you'll be paid
for your coffee, bad as it was. His excellency is the pasha's, his
highness's, most particular intimate friend; and if his highness knew
what you had been saying, why, where would you be, O man?" The khangee,
who had intended to have had it all his own way, was taken terribly
aback at the sound of the Turkish tongue: he speedily put on my horse's
bridle, gave his nosebag to the muleteer, tightened up his girths,
helped the servants, and was suddenly converted into a humble submissive
drudge. The way in which anything Turkish is respected among the
conquered races in Syria or in Egypt can scarcely be imagined by those
who have not witnessed it.

Leaving the khangee to count his paras and piastres, with which, after
all, he was evidently well satisfied, we rode on down the valley by the
side of a brawling stream, which we crossed no less than thirty-nine
times during our day's journey. Our road lay through a magnificent
series of picturesque and savage gorges, between high rocks. Sometimes
we rode along the bed of the stream, and sometimes upon a ledge so far
above it that it looked like a silver ribbon in the sun. Every now and
then we came to a cataract or rapid, where the stream boiled and foamed
among the rocks, tossing up its spray, and drowning our voices in its
noise. In the course of about eight hours of continual scrambling up
and down all sorts of rocks, we found ourselves at another wretched
shelty dignified with the name of khan. Here, after a tolerable supper,
we all rolled ourselves up in the different corners of a sort of loft,
with our arms under