l vessels
made of birchwood, and is considered by the Laplander as such an
extraordinary delicacy, that he reserves it as the most acceptable
present he can offer even a missionary. It is placed before the fire and
eaten with a spoon as it is thawed. When put by, it is carefully covered
up, because if the cold air gets to it afterwards, it turns of a yellow
colour and becomes rancid."

Amongst the peasants at the present day, soured milk is known as
_yoghourt_, a word which is spelt differently according to the locality
in which it is used. The method of preparation is practically the same
everywhere, and a short description of the process as now carried out
in one place would, with slight modifications, apply to the general
method adopted all over the East.

"The culture," says a correspondent at Varna, "which is used for the
preparation of yogourt, is known as 'Maya' or as 'Bulgarian Maya.' The
milk which is to be converted into yogourt must first be freed from all
bacteria by boiling and allowed to cool to the temperature of 45 deg. C.;
it is then inoculated with maya and maintained at an even temperature of
45 deg. C. during several hours. There are two kinds of maya, or ferment,
one known as sour, and the other as sweet maya.

"In Europe small stoves, made expressly for the purpose, are used to
maintain the milk at the proper temperature. In this country, however,
after the milk has been boiled, it is merely poured into a bowl and
allowed to cool to approximately 45 deg. C., then a tablespoonful of this
tepid milk is well mixed (in a small bowl apart) with a similar quantity
of maya, and the mixture, when it has become quite homogeneous, is added
to the bowl of tepid milk and stirred slightly. (One tablespoonful of
maya is sufficient to ferment one litre of milk.) A cover is then placed
on the bowl and the whole is enveloped in flannel and left in a warm
place for three hours in summer, and somewhat longer in winter.

"The process of preparation is complete when the mixture assumes the
appearance of a soft mass somewhat resembling cream cheese, but less
solid. The flannel is then removed, the bowl uncovered and placed in a
cool spot until needed for consumption. Of the yogourt thus prepared, a
tablespoonful is kept to serve as maya for the following day.

"The best yogourt is prepared from sheep's milk, the second quality from
buffaloes' milk, and the third quality from cows' milk. Yogourt forms an
almost dail