e to introduce its use to the Western nations until quite
recently.

[Illustration: THE HANDLING OF MILK IN THE PYRENEES

The handling of milk in the Pyrenees is, more especially
in the villages, conducted in goat or sheep skins, in a
similar way to the methods which prevail in Eastern
Europe, and the picture shows a skin of milk on a small
farm in the Pyrenees. The churning is very often performed
by simply rocking the skin between the knees, acidity
being induced by remnants of the previous day's milk;
souring of milk is induced by the same method.]

A curious example of how the virtues of such an article may be
independently discovered by another nation is to be found in Lapland,
where reindeer's milk is the article used. "The reindeer's milk," says
Acerbi,[11] "constitutes a principal part of the Laplander's food, and
he has two methods of preparing it, according to the season. In summer
he boils the milk with sorrel till it arrives to a consistence; in this
manner he preserves it for use during that short season. In winter the
following is his method of preparation: The milk, which he collects in
autumn till the beginning of November, from the reindeer, is put into
casks, or whatever vessels he has, in which it soon turns sour, and, as
the cold weather comes on, freezes, and in this state it is kept. The
milk collected after this time is mixed with cranberries and put into
the paunch of the reindeer, well cleaned from filth; thus the milk soon
congeals, and it is cut out in slices, together with the paunch, to
effect which a hatchet is used, for no smaller instrument would perform
the office of dividing that lump of ice. It is then separated into small
pieces and eaten throughout the winter every day at noon, which is the
Laplander's dinner-hour. It must be presumed, as it is served up without
being brought to the fire, that this is ice-cream in the greatest
perfection: here are flesh and fruit blended with the richest
butyraceous milk that can be drawn from any animal; but, notwithstanding
the extraordinary fatness, which may be supposed to resist in a great
degree the effect of cold, this preparation, as our good missionary
remarks with a degree of feeling, as if his teeth still chattered whilst
he delivered the account, chills and freezes the mouth in a violent
manner whenever it is taken. The milk which is drawn late in the winter
freezes immediately after being drawn. This is put into smal