fect and superficial, but I trust not altogether destitute of
amusing features.

On a pleasant morning in August, I called for my "rechnung" at the
German gasthaus on the Wasseli-Ostrow. The bill was complicated in
proportion to its length. There was an extra charge of fifteen kopeks
a day for the room over and above the amount originally specified.
That was conscientious cheating, so I made no complaint. Then there
was a charge for two candles when I saw but one, and always went to
bed by daylight. That was customary cheating, and could not be
disputed. Next came an item for beefsteaks, when, to the best of my
knowledge and belief, nothing but veal cutlets, which were also duly
specified, ever passed my lips in any part of Russia. Upon that I
ventured a remonstrance, but gave in on the assurance that it was
Russian beefsteak. I was too glad to have any ground for believing
that it was not Russian dog. Next came an item for police commissions.
All that work I had done myself, and therefore was entitled to demur.
It appeared that a man was kept for that purpose, and when he was not
employed he expected remuneration for the disappointment. Then there
was an item for domestic service, when the only service rendered was
to black my boots, for which I had already paid. No matter; it was
customary, so I gave in. Then came sundry bottles of wine. I never
drink wine. "But," said the proprietor, "it was on the table." Not
being able to dispute that, I abandoned the question of wine. Various
ices were in the bill. I had asked for a lump of ice in a glass of
water on several occasions, supposing it to be a common article in a
country on the edge of the Arctic circle, but for every lump of ice
the charge was ten kopeks. Upon this principle, I suppose they attach
an exorbitant value to thawed water during six months of the year,
when the Neva is a solid block of ice. I find that ice is an
uncommonly costly luxury in Northern Europe, where there is a great
deal of it. In Germany it is ranked with fresh water and other deadly
poisons; in Russia it costs too much for general use; and in Norway
and Sweden, where the snow-capped mountains are always in sight, the
people seem to be unacquainted with the use of iced water, or, indeed,
any other kind of water as a beverage in summer. They drink brandy and
schnapps to keep themselves cool. However, I got through the bill at
last, without loss of temper, being satisfied it was very reasonable