s excitement. With
the exception of a few stevedores at work on the wharves and a trifling
jostle at the market-places, the whole city seems to be sitting down in
its Northern solitude, waiting, like Mr. Micawber, for something to
turn up. In some parts one may walk half a mile without hearing a sound
save the echo of his own footsteps. It is, emphatically, a "slow"
place--so slow, indeed, compared with the marts of commerce to which I
had been accustomed in California (especially the city of Oakland),
that I was constantly impressed with the idea that every body was fast
asleep, and that if three or four of them should happen to wake at the
same time, it would be fearfully startling to hear their eyelids crack
open and the hollow streets echo to their yawns.

But don't understand this as a reflection upon the Swedish race. They
are industrious and energetic when occasion requires, but, like all
people who live at the extreme North, acquire tropical habits of
indolence from the climate. During the tedious winters, when the days
are but six hours long, all who can afford it become torpid, like
frogs, and lie up in their houses till the summer sun thaws them out.
Balls, parties, and sleigh-riding occasionally rouse them up, but
lethargy is the general rule. The warm weather comes very suddenly,
and then the days are eighteen hours long. This being the season of
outdoor pleasure, it is spent in visits to the country or lounging
about the gardens, sitting on spring benches and enjoying the
sunshine.

The Swedish soldiers are a fine-looking race of men, far superior in
stature and general appearance to the soldiers of Russia. They are
well drilled, bold, and manly, and have fine faces, full of spirit and
intelligence. Wherever these men are led, they will now, as in past
times, give the enemies of their country some trouble. I consider them
the finest soldiers in Northern Europe.

The general aspect of the citizens of Stockholm is that of extreme
plainness and simplicity. I take them to be an honest, substantial,
and reliable people, well educated and intelligent; satisfied with
themselves and the world, and proud of their country and its history.
Politeness is a national characteristic. Every person, of high and low
degree, upon entering a shop, takes off his hat, and remains with
uncovered head while making his purchase. Gentlemen who meet on the
street knock the tops of their "tiles" against their knees, and
continue