me. It is thought by some that he
must have been laboring under some mental hallucination at the time of
the capitulation. Be that as it may, the success of the Russian arms
was doubtless greatly facilitated by this act of treason. Cronstadt,
like Benedict Arnold, died an isolated and broken-hearted man. His
ill-gotten gains were but a poor recompense for the infamy entailed
upon his name. Such, indeed, as all history shows, has been and must
ever be the fate of all traitors to their country.

Helsingfors was founded by Gustavus Vasa in the sixteenth century. A
portion of the old town is still visible, though there is little about
it beyond a few ruined walls possessing much historical interest.
After the Russians obtained possession they enlarged and improved the
city upon its present site, and in 1819 it became the capital of
Finland. In 1827 Abo suffered from a general conflagration, after
which the grand University of that city was removed to Helsingfors,
which now comprises the most important public buildings and
institutions in Finland. Among these are the senate-house, the palace
of the governor, the Museum, the Botanical Garden, the Observatory,
etc. The streets in the lower parts of the city are broad and regular,
and many of the houses are quite as good as the generality of private
residences in Moscow or St. Petersburg. The principal church, which is
built in the form of a Greek cross, is a conspicuous and imposing
edifice, standing near the centre of the town on a rocky eminence,
presenting on the approach up the harbor a peculiarly Russian effect
with its gilded domes and crosses. The green roofs of the houses also
remind one that he is still within the dominions of Russia; and if any
doubt on that point should remain after landing from the steamer, it
is speedily dispelled by the vast numbers of Russian soldiers and
officers constantly marching about the streets.

I had two days to devote to the objects of interest in and around
Helsingfors. For convenience and economy, I took a room in a Finnish
hotel, on one of the back streets. Having deposited my knapsack, my
first visit was to the Observatory, from which a beautiful view is to
be had of the harbor and fortifications. From this point of
observation a very good idea may be formed of the extent and general
character of the town. It covers a large area of solid rocks, the
entire foundation consisting of immense round boulders, forming a
succession of up