al courtesies,
especially at steam-boat landings. Therefore I say that to see
hack-drivers bow down before shrines and stop on public thoroughfares,
and with the utmost gravity uncover their heads and interchange
courtly salaams--nay, even kiss hands in certain cases--is a novel and
peculiar spectacle, suggestive of improvements which might be
beneficially imported into our country.

There was an impassive, abstracted air about Dominico very difficult
to describe, but very impressive to a stranger. All these
peculiarities were developed the first or second day of our
acquaintance. About the third he seemed to grow impatient, hummed over
a few gems from unknown operas, and was less disposed than usual to
unbend himself. There was evidently a coolness growing up between us.
I suspected it originated in my hat, which was really very shabby; and
fancied I detected a supercilious expression in his eye as it ranged
over my coat and down to my boots. At length he said, "Monsieur, you
appear to travel with very little baggage!"

_Myself._ Yes, only a knapsack.

_Dominico_ (after a pause). Pray what business may Monsieur be engaged
in?

_M._ None at all--just ranging about miscellaneously.

_Dom._ May I be so bold as to ask what part of England does Monsieur
come from?

_M._ Oh, I didn't come from England at all!

_Dom._ (puzzled). Pray where does Monsieur come from?

_M._ Oh, just come from over the way there--California!

_Dom._ (elevating his eyebrows and stopping suddenly). California? The
great gold country? Where they dig gold out of the ground?

_M._ Yes--that's my country.

_Dom._ (admiringly). Oh, then, Monsieur is a gentleman of fortune,
just traveling for pleasure?

_M._ Precisely; for pleasure and information combined. My estates are
situated in the city of Oakland.

_Dom._ Is that a large city?

_M._ Well, it covers a good deal of ground--as much, I think, as
Moscow.

_Dom._ If Monsieur pleases, we will take a drosky and visit some of
the gardens?

_M._ Agreed.

And so ended the conversation. It was marvelous, the change it
produced in Dominico; how his dignity evaporated; how vivacious he
became; how frank and unreserved he was in his descriptions of the
wonders of Moscow; how he scorned to take trifles of change, and how
magnificently he disregarded expenses. Wherever we went, however grand
the domestics, soldiers, or police, Dominico was always high above
them, and I could hear him descan