e up the side of a mountain, would have offered a noble and
pleasing prospect to eyes accustomed to the monotony of a sea view, but
that the majestic Peak, that giant among mountains, rearing in the
background its snow-crowned head 13,278 feet above the level of the sea,
now stood clear and cloudless before us, enchaining all our faculties,
the effect of its appearance rendered still more striking by the sudden
parting of the clouds which had previously concealed it from us. This
prodigious conical volcano is from its steepness difficult of access,
and the small crater on the summit is so closely surrounded by a wall of
lava, that in some places there is scarcely room to stand. He who is
bold enough to climb it, however, will find himself rewarded with one of
the finest prospects in the world. Immediately beneath him, stretches
the entire extent of the Teneriffe, with all its lovely scenery; round
it the other nineteen Canary Islands; the eye then glances over an
immense expanse of waters, beyond which may be descried in the distance
the dark forests of the African coast, and even the yellow stripe which
marks the verge of the great Desert. With thoughts full of the
enjoyments which awaited us, we approached the town. We planned parties
to see the country and climb the Peak; and our scientific associates,
holding themselves in readiness to land as soon as the boat could be
lowered, already rejoiced over the new treasures of mineralogy and
botany of which the island seemed to promise so ample a store: meanwhile
we had made the usual signal for a pilot; but having in vain waited his
appearance, I resolved, as the road was not altogether unknown to me, to
cast anchor without him; when, just as we had made our preparations, a
ball from the fortress struck the water not far from the ship. At the
same time we perceived that all was bustle on the walls; the cannons
were pointed, the matches lighted, and plenty of Spanish balls were
ready for our reception. Our government being at peace with Spain, this
hostile conduct was quite unintelligible to us; but as I had no desire
for a battle, I contented myself with drawing off the ship, and lying to
beyond the reach of cannon shot, in the hope that a boat would be sent
to us with some explanation of it. After, however, waiting a
considerable time in vain, perceiving the continuance of warlike
preparations on the walls, we were reluctantly obliged to renounce all
hopes of visiting the