d means nothing. He confesses
that, being on Fezzanee ground, he has really no claim upon caravans at
all; but he is a greedy old rascal, and would take any advantage he
could. The same gentleman says that Sakonteroua is only a chicken in his
own country--quite powerless; if this be the case, his enmity is not of
so much consequence as I feared.

The camels of the Tuaricks usually go well, and make good hours, because
they are not allowed to eat on the road. They all march in strings, one
being tied behind the other; each string is led on by servants or
slaves. Thus, when once loaded, there is little difficulty on the way.
When seen at a distance, they resemble a moving mass of troops,
especially when the mirage multiplies their long files. _Our_ camels,
however, being all Arab camels, cannot be made to go in strings, and are
always staring about for something whereon to browse.

I begin to feel better in health. If we could but encamp for three or
four hours during the heat of the day, I have no doubt I should get on
well enough. There was talk of serpents to-day; I saw none on this
route, however. People at Mourzuk are occasionally bitten by lefas and
scorpions, and death ensues often. Ammonia has been tried with success
as a cure.

_July 1st._--We were astir at the encampment a little after daybreak:
but it takes usually two hours to get off, although we have but seven
camels. I hope our people will be quicker after a little more practice.
The heat was very troublesome; and nothing could keep the Tuaricks from
going on all through the day, for ten hours and a quarter, without
stopping. Our course was along the broad wady, which resembles an
immense plain. On the surface of its sandy bed are scattered pebbles and
blocks of sandstone and limestone, but the former chiefly. There was
nothing to please the eye but the delicate tints of the line of
sand-hills on the left--a faint yellow, at times mingling with the sky
when very luminous; and the round tholukh-trees, scattered like black
spots on the light sand of the valley. A little mirage figured a dark,
black lake, which, however, sparkled with light under the trees. Few
animals were seen: a young camel, left to graze in the valley, followed
us most cheerfully this morning.

We passed two or three wells in the course of the day, at a place called
Kouwana, with water near the surface, and obtained some by scraping out
the sand; we did not, however, take any up, becau