tionate demands of the Tuaricks. I was not sorry for the
refusals, for really I have ten thousand people to give presents to
before I return from the interior.

I do not consider that, after all, Haj Ahmed treated us so well as he
might have done. The first dinner was good; but the others were poor,
and some of it I could not eat at all. He was disappointed at my not
bringing him a printed Koran; but I could not, on this occasion, make
such a present.

Hateetah, in all these disputes at Ghat, has acted a double part.
Publicly he was our enemy; but privately he pretended to be our greatest
friend. He was imitated in his conduct by the son of Shafou, who seemed
to look upon him as his Mentor. On leaving, Hateetah promised that I
should see something wonderful which he would do for me, speaking of the
treaty. I am afraid that not much reliance can be placed on these fine
promises.

On the morning fixed for my departure, the Sheikhs and Haj Ahmed, seeing
me much grieved, out of health and out of temper, all came forward to
try and repair any mischief they might have done me and their own
reputation. They begged me to leave the treaty with them, and promised
faithfully in the assembly of all the Sheikhs, in the winter, to do
their best to gratify the wishes of the British Government. They also
undertook to write private letters themselves, especially Hateetah. Haj
Ibrahim, to whom I presented a watch worth twenty dollars, also promised
to render me all his assistance and influence with the Sheikhs, and to
be my wakeel (agent) in my absence. Jabour paid me a farewell visit, and
after he received his present was very polite and jocular. Yusuf Moknee,
as a Tripoline, also paid him six reals; for he is the official
protector of people from that city, as well as some others. The day
before, one of his people had seized my Fezzanee servant because he did
not give the usual presents, viz. a barracan and common fez. He was put
to "working in water," as they call it; that is, to assist in irrigating
one of the gardens. After a short time, however, they allowed him to
return to me. Such are the Tuaricks--grasping, violent, and capricious!
I cannot, however, until I see the fate of the treaty, completely decide
upon the conduct of Hateetah and the body of Sheikhs generally.

Mahommed Kafa was one of our best friends at Ghat, and had always a
smile to greet us with--a great relief in a country where most of the
people you meet have