ataitee came early to my tent, and asked me for a bit of
sugar. I gave him half a loaf, with which he was apparently well
satisfied; for afterwards he asked if I had any letters to take to Ghat.
I consigned to him a letter for Mr. Bidwell and my wife. Wataitee amused
Barth by recounting to him numerous dues which he had failed to pay.
Amongst the rest, a tax to see the Kasar Janoon; fifty dollars for
drinking of the well of Esalan, &c. &c. These matters being at length
settled, we proceeded for Aisou, and journeyed a long day of twelve
hours and a-half. I was looking out every moment, expecting to clear the
rocks, and enter upon the immeasurable stretch of plain reported to us.
But all was a rocky granite expanse, with conical-shaped rocks, exactly
as before described. We begin to tire of this kind of country, which
seemed so picturesque when we first entered upon it.

To-day the weather was misty, and we felt as if entering into the circle
of a new climate. Few or no animals were seen. All is dismal and dreary.

_15th._--We rose at daybreak, and proceeded steadily on, making a day's
journey of thirteen long weary hours. The stony plain opened rather more
than yesterday, but there were always rocks on either hand.

To-day we had the first drops of Soudan rain, and a complete Soudan
atmosphere. We also observed the vermilion tinge on the clouds, peculiar
to Central Africa; and the air was hot and clammy. Every sort of desert
phenomenon is seen in these parts in perfection. The mirage often fills
up the interstices left between the rocks, and inundates the plain ahead
with its fantastic waters.

_16th._--We were early in motion this day; and started, cheered by the
hope held out to us, that at the termination of two long marches we
should at length reach, at the Seven Wells of Aisou, the frontiers of
Aheer. It is true that we were promised no town, no village, not even
visible landmarks; above all, no custom-house officers to suggest the
blessings of civilisation. There was, in truth, some idea that very
indefinite dues might be exacted of us during our progress through the
northern districts of the Asben territory. Still it was a comfort to get
at last within the limits of the influence of a form of polity, however
rude.

Whilst we were indulging in these reflections, there came on a regular
desert-storm. A vault of clouds, like huge irregular rocks, was soon
heaped up overhead. The thunder roared from side to side o