oss. We spent the night on the banks of the Liparu,[9]
and then proceeded on our way.

_3rd May, 1866._--We rested in a Makoa village, the head of which was
an old woman. The Makoa or Makoane are known by a half-moon figure
tattooed on their foreheads or elsewhere. Our poodle dog Chitane
chased the dogs of this village with unrelenting fury, his fierce
looks inspired terror among the wretched pariah dogs of a yellow and
white colour, and those looks were entirely owing to its being
difficult to distinguish at which end his head or tail lay. He enjoyed
the chase of the yelping curs immensely, but if one of them had turned
he would have bolted the other way.

A motherly-looking woman came forward and offered me some meal; this
was when we were in the act of departing: others had given food to the
men and no return had been made. I told her to send it on by her
husband, and I would purchase it, but it would have been better to
have accepted it: some give merely out of kindly feeling and with no
prospect of a return.

Many of the Makoa men have their faces thickly tattooed in double,
raised lines of about half an inch in length. After the incisions are
made charcoal is rubbed in and the flesh pressed out, so that all the
cuts are raised above the level of the surface. It gives them rather a
hideous look, and a good deal of that fierceness which our kings and
chiefs of old put on whilst having their portraits taken.

_4th May, 1866._--The stream, embowered in perpetual shade and
overspread with the roots of water-loving, broad-leaved trees, we
found to be called Nkonya. The spot of our encampment was an island
formed by a branch of it parting and re-entering it again: the owner
had used it for rice.

The buffaloes were bitten again by tsetse on 2nd, and also to-day,
from the bites of other flies (which look much more formidable than
tsetse), blood of arterial colour flows down; this symptom I never saw
before, but when we slaughtered an ox which had been tsetse bitten, we
observed that the blood had the arterial hue. The cow has inflammation
of one eye, and a swelling on the right lumbar portion of the pelvis:
the grey buffalo has been sick, but this I attribute to unmerciful
loading; for his back is hurt: the camels do not seem to feel the fly,
though they get weaker from the horrid running sores upon them and
hard work. There are no symptoms of tsetse in mules or donkeys, but
one mule has had his shoulder sprained, a