, people courtesy, sometimes even when the
carriage is empty.

The Queen ordered the postilions to go slowly through the narrow
streets of the village to avoid the risk of running over the crowds of
children. I never saw so many. Eight or ten at each door! They all
seemed to be of the same age, and all were dressed in red calico, which
made a very pretty note of color against the shabby houses. There are a
great many manufactories about here, and I suppose red calico must be
cheap.

We reached the _palazzo_ before sunset. I was quite chilled through in
spite of all my wraps (heavy and warm as they were) and thankful to get
out of them and get a hot cup of tea.

We found the Marquise Dadda and the Countess Somaglia, who had arrived
for tea. The Queen always receives her friends at this time.

Another military dinner this evening! Evidently, Monza is polishing off
the military just now. It is very amusing for us, as it gives us the
chance to see all the celebrities. I sat to the left of his Majesty,
and he told me in a loud voice who every one was and what each one had
done. He did not seem to mind their hearing. Pointing to one of the
generals, he said, laughingly: "He is _tout ce qu'il y a de plus
militaire_; even his night-gowns have epaulettes on them, and he sleeps
with one hand on his sword."

MONZA, _6th of November_.

Dear ----,--Signor Bonghi, the great Italian savant, arrived for
luncheon to-day. He is a personality! I will describe him later. I will
only say now he is most learned and very absent-minded. After luncheon
the Queen wanted us to see the old cathedral of Monza, where, as you
know, the famous iron crown of Charlemagne is kept. So after lunch the
landau was ordered for us. Marquise Trotti (_dame d'honneur_)
accompanied us. The Queen asked Signor Bonghi to go with us to explain
things. Quite a crowd collected about the church door to stare at the
court equipages. The handsome tall servants, in their brilliant red
liveries, were alone worth looking at.

It is very much of a ceremony to see the iron crown. After having
visited the cathedral thoroughly we were conducted down some steps to
the little chapel which contains the crown. The priest is obliged to
put on the robes of high mass, and is assisted by another priest and a
boy who swings the censer all the time. The _cappellano_ collected the
money (twenty lire) from our party before the proceedings. (It is
always well to be on the safe side