especially in shirt-making, as the edge of the stuff, too apt in any
case, to cut and fray, is, thereby, still further weakened. Hems in
woollen materials, which will not take a bend, can only be laid and
tacked, bit by bit. In making, what are called rolled hems, the needle
must be slipped in, so as only to pierce the first turning, in order
that the stitches may not be visible on the outside.

FLAT SEAM (fig. 9).--Lay your two edges, whether straight or slanting,
exactly even, tack them together with stitches 2 c/m. long, distant 1 to
2 c/m. from the edge, and then back-stitch them by machine or by hand,
following the tacking-thread. Cut off half the inner edge, turn the
outer one in, as for a hem and sew it down with hemming-stitches.

[Illustration: FIG. 9. FLAT SEAM.]

Smooth the seam underneath with the forefinger as you go, to make it lie
quite flat. Beginners should flatten down the seam with their thimbles,
or with the handle of the scissors, before they begin to hem, as the
outer and wider edge is very apt to get pushed up and bulge over, in the
sewing, which hides the stitches.

ROUNDED SEAM.--Back-stitch your two edges together, as above directed,
then cut off the inner edge to a width of four threads, and roll the
outer one in, with the left thumb, till the raw edge is quite hidden,
hemming as you roll. This kind of seam, on the wrong side, looks like a
fine cord, laid on, and is used in making the finer qualities of
underclothing.

FASTENING THREADS OFF, AND ON (fig. 10).--Knots should be avoided in
white work. To fasten on, in hemming, turn the needle backwards with the
point up, take one stitch, and stroke and work the end of the thread in,
underneath the turning. To fasten on, in back-stitching or running,
make one stitch with the new thread, then take both ends and lay them
down together to the left, and work over them, so that they wind in, and
out of the next few stitches.

[Illustration: FIG. 10. FASTENING THREADS OFF AND ON.]

(4) TOP OR OVER-SEWING STITCH (fig. 11).--This stitch is used for
joining selvedges together. To keep the two pieces even, it is better,
either to tack or pin them together first. Insert the needle, from right
to left, under the first thread of the selvedge, and through both edges,
and sew from right to left, setting your stitches not more than three
threads apart. The thread must not be drawn too tightly, so that when
the seam is finished and flattened with the thim