the first thread (fig. 139).--Tack the net which is to be darned,
closely to the defective part, upon either oil-cloth or coloured paper
and cut the edges straight to the thread; Your thread must be of exactly
the same size, as that of which the net is made. It takes three rows of
stitches to imitate the net ground; in the first place, as shown in fig.
139, cross-threads must be laid from side to side, carried as in
darning, a little beyond the edges of the hole and so as to surround
each mesh with a slanting stitch.

[Illustration: FIG. 139. NET DARNING. LAYING THE FIRST THREAD.]

LAYING THE SECOND THREAD (fig. 140).--Secondly, beginning from one
corner, threads are laid diagonally across the first layer. The
cross-threads of the foundation are encircled by a stitch, made from
right to left, the needle is then carried under the next horizontal bar,
and the first layer of threads is overcast with similar stitches.

[Illustration: FIG. 140. NET DARNING. LAYING THE SECOND THREAD.]

LAYING THE THIRD THREAD (fig. 141).--Thirdly, threads are carried
across the second and first layers. They must start, far enough from the
edge, for the second layer of threads to be overcast at the same time,
so that there may be no loose threads left on the wrong side. In this
third journey, every diagonal thread of the foundation is to be
encircled with a stitch, taken upwards from below, the cut edges being
strengthened in the same way. Then, to form the little cross in the
fabric, the thread must be conducted by means of a second stitch, under
the single horizontal thread, outwards, to the next-diagonal thread.

[Illustration: FIG. 141. NET DARNING. LAYING THE THIRD THREAD.]

In places where the net is worn, it can be strengthened in the same
manner, the stitches being made the way of the stuff.

DAMASK STITCHES.--As a rule the pattern is simply outlined with stem
and cord stitch, and the inside spaces are left plain. In spite of the
time this simple tracing takes to do, the effect is rather poor and
scanty. If however, the inside of the leaves and flowers, be filled in
with damask stitch, the result is very handsome.

Not only can the following stitches, which are suitable for any linen
coarse or fine, be used for this kind of embroidery, but most of the net
and lace patterns too, and these combined with buttonholing and flat
stitch produce charming effects.

MATERIALS SUITABLE FOR DAMASK STITCHES.--All the threads and cottons
us