connecting-stitch and hem, all in one, as follows: bring out
the thread before the cluster, and pass it round it, then from right to
left, over three horizontal and under four perpendicular threads, again
from left to right, over the four threads just passed over, and out at
the second cluster; laying it over this, you bring it out behind the
first cluster, wind it round the middle of them both, and pass it
through, between the over-casting stitches back to the hem; encircle the
second cluster with a loop-stitch, and carry your thread again over
three horizontal and four perpendicular threads, and upwards, slanting
underneath the stuff, out in front of the next cluster.

[Illustration: FIG. 73. TURKISH CLUSTER OPEN-WORK.]

OPEN-WORK WITH DARNING STITCH (fig. 74).--Draw out from eight to
twelve threads, according to the quality of the stuff. Insert your
needle and thread between two clusters, and pass it, as if you were
darning, backwards and forwards over them, until they are encased half
way down with stitches. In so doing, work with the eye of the needle
forward, and the point towards your thimble. To pass to the next
cluster, take one stitch back, under the one just darned, and bring your
thread underneath the threads of the stuff, to the second cluster.

[Illustration: FIG. 74. OPEN-WORK WITH DARNING STITCH.]

OPEN-WORK IN THREE COLOURS (fig. 75).--This pattern which is to be
done in the same way as fig. 74, requires the drawing out of, at least,
eighteen threads. Every cross-line of three clusters is to be worked in
one colour. The colours may all be different, or you may if you prefer,
take shades of the same colour.

[Illustration: FIG. 75. OPEN-WORK IN THREE COLOURS. COLOURS: Bleu-Indigo
311, 322, 334, Brun-Caroubier 354, 303, 357, or Rouge-Geranium 349, 351,
352.[A]]

OPEN-WORK INSERTION (figs. 76 and 77).--For both these, the edges are
to be overcast, and the darning stitches packed sufficiently closely
together, for the threads of the stuff to be entirely covered.

Fig. 76 requires the drawing out of eighteen threads, fig. 77, of
thirty. Both admit of several colours being used.

[Illustration: FIG. 76. OPEN-WORK INSERTION.]

[Illustration: FIG. 77. OPEN-WORK INSERTION.]

OPEN-WORK INSERTION (fig. 78).--After drawing out sixteen or eighteen
threads, bind both sides with stitches made over four horizontal and
four perpendicular threads, as follows; make one back-stitch over four
disengaged threads,