were beginning to approach the VOSGES--or the great chain of
mountains, which, running almost due north and south, separates France from
ALSACE. Below, glittered the spires of _Nancy_--as the sun's last rays
rested upon them. A little distance beyond, shot up the two elegant towers
of _St. Nicholas_; but I am getting on a little too fast.... The forest of
Hayes can be scarcely less than a dozen English miles in breadth. I had
never before seen so much wood in France. Yet the want of water is a great
draw-back to the perfection of rural scenery in this country. We had hardly
observed one rivulet since we had quitted the little glimmering stream at
Chateau-Thierry.

We now gained fast upon NANCY, the capital of Lorraine. It is doubtless
among the handsomest provincial towns in Europe; and is chiefly indebted
for its magnificence to Stanislaus, King of Poland, who spent the latter
part of his life there, and whose daughter was married to Louis XV. The
annexation of Lorraine to France has been considered the masterpiece of
Louis's policy. Nancy may well boast of her broad and long streets: running
chiefly at right angles with each other: well paved, and tolerably clean.
The houses are built chiefly of stone. Here are churches, a theatre, a
college, a public library--palace-like buildings--public gardens--
hospitals, coffee houses, and barracks. In short, Nancy is another Caen;
but more magnificent, although less fruitful in antiquities. The _Place de
la Liberte_ et _d'alliance_ et _de la Carriere_ may vie with the public
buildings of Bath; but some of the sculptured ornaments of the _former_,
exhibit miserable proofs of the fury of the Revolutionists. Indeed Nancy
was particularly distinguished by a visit of the Marseillois gentry, who
chose to leave behind pretty strong proofs of their detestation of what was
at once elegant and harmless. The headless busts of men and women, round
the house of the governor, yet prove the excesses of the mob; and the
destruction of two places of worship was the close of their devastating
labours.

Nancy is divided into the _Old_ and the _New Town_. The four principal
streets, dividing the latter nearly at right angles, are terminated by
handsome arches, in the character of _gateways_. They have a noble
appearance.

On the first evening of our arrival at Nancy, we walked, after a late cup
of tea, into the public garden--at the extremity of the town. It was broad
moon light; and the appear