n the true church-warden style. The
great boast of this church is its MONUMENTS; which, it must be confessed,
are upon the whole exceedingly interesting. As to their antiquity, I
noticed two or three of the thirteenth century; but they pretend to run up
as high as the tenth. Indeed I saw one inscription of the eleventh
century--executed in gothic letters, such as we observe of the latter end
of the sixteenth. This could not be a coeval inscription; for I doubt
whether there exist, any where, a monumental tablet of the eleventh century
executed in _coeval gothic_ letters. The service performed here is after
the confession of Augsbourg; in other words, according to the reformed
Lutheran church. A small crucifix, placed upon an altar between the nave
and the choir, delicately marks this distinction; for Luther, you know, did
not wage an interminable war against crucifixes.

Of _modern_ monuments, the boast and glory of this church is that of the
famous MARSHAL SAXE; who died at the age of 55, in the year 1755. While I
was looking very intently at it, the good verger gently put a printed
description of it into my hands, on a loose quarto sheet. I trust to be
forgiven if I read only its first sentence:--_Cette grande composition
reunit aux richesse de l'art des Phidias et des Bouchardon, les traits de
la grande poesie._" "Take any shape but this"--thought I to myself--and,
folding it up as gently as it had been delivered to me, I put it into my
pocket. My good friend, I do beseech you to hear me out--when I preface my
remarks by saying, that, of all monuments, _this_ is one of the most
tasteless and uninteresting. Listen to a brief but faithful description of
it.

An immense pyramidal-shaped gray marble forms the background. Upon such a
back-ground there might have been a group of a _dozen_ figures at least.
However, there happen to be only _four_ of the human species, and three of
animals. These human figures are, the Marshal; a woman weeping lustily--I
had almost said blubbering; (intended to represent France) Hercules; and a
little child--of some order or degree, not less affected than the female.
The animals are, a lion, a leopard, (which latter has a bear-like form) and
an eagle. I will now tell you what they are all doing. Before the Marshal,
is an opened grave; into which this illustrious hero, clad in complete
armour, is about to march with a quiet, measured step--as unconcernedly, as
if he were descending a flight o