illage and _Castle of
Blamont_ merit at least the leisurely survey of an entire day.

On starting for _Heming_, the next post, we were much pleased by the sight
of a rich, verdant valley, fertilized by a meandering rivulet. The village
of _Richeval_ had particular attractions; and the sight of alternate woods
and meadows seemed to mitigate the severity of the heat of the day. At
Heming we changed horses, opposite a large fountain where cattle were
coming to drink. The effect was very picturesque; but there was no time for
the pencil of Mr. Lewis to be exercised. In less than five minutes we were
off for _Sarrebourg_. Evening came on as we approached it. Here I saw
_hops_ growing, for the first time; and here, for the first time, I heard
the _German language_ spoken--and observed much of the German character in
the countenances of the inhabitants. The postilion was a German, and could
not speak one word of French. However, he knew the art of driving--for we
seemed to fly like the wind towards _Hommarting_--which we reached in half
an hour. It was just two leagues from Sarrebourg. We stopped to change
horses close to what seemed to be a farm house; and as the animals were
being "yoked to the car," for another German Phaeton, I walked into a very
large room, which appeared to be a kitchen. Two long tables were covered
with supper; at each of which sat--as closely wedged as well could be--a
great number of work-people of both sexes, and of all ages. Huge dogs were
moving backwards and forwards, in the hope of receiving some charitable
morsel;, and before the fire, on a littered hearth, lay stretched out two
tremendous mastiffs. I walked with fear and trembling. The cooks were
carrying the evening meal; and the whole place afforded such an
_interior_--as Jan Steen would have viewed with rapture, and Wilkie have
been delighted to copy. Meanwhile the postilion's whip was sounded: the
fresh horses were neighing: and I was told that every thing was ready. I
mounted with alacrity. It was getting dark; and I requested the good people
of the house to tell the postilion that I did not wish him to _sleep_ upon
the road.

The hint was sufficient. This second German postilion seemed to have taken
a leaf out of the book of his predecessor: for we exchanged a sharp trot
for a full swing canter--terminating in a gallop; and found ourselves
unexpectedly before the gates of _Phalsbourg_. Did you ever, my dear
friend, approach a fortified to