o many thousand temptations to abuse
time and to destroy character.
The day of our departure was very fine, tending rather to heat. In a little
half hour we cleared the barrier of St. Martin, and found ourselves on the
broad, open, route royale--bordered by poplars and limes. To the right, was
the pretty village of _Belleville:_ to the left, at the distance of some
six or eight English miles, we observed _Montmorenci, St. Germain en Laye_,
and, considerably nearer, _St. Denis_. All these places, together with
_Versailles,_ I had previously visited--Montmorenci and St. Denis twice--
and intended to have given you an account of them; but you could have
received from me scarcely any thing more than what the pages of the
commonest tour would have supplied you with. We first changed horses at
_Bondy_, the forest of which was once very extensive and much celebrated.
You now behold little more than a formal avenue of trees. The _Castle of
Raincy_, situated in this forest, is to the right, well-wooded--and the
property of the Duke of Orleans. _Ville-Parisis_ was the next prettiest
spot, in our route to _Claye_, where we again changed horses. The whole
route, from _Ville-Parisis_ to _Meaux_, was exceedingly pleasing and even
picturesque. At Meaux we dined, and have reason to remember the extravagant
charges of the woman who kept the inn. The heat of the day was now becoming
rather intense. While our veal-cutlet was preparing, we visited the church;
which had frequently, and most picturesquely, peeped out upon us during our
route. It is a large, cathedral-like looking church, without transepts,
Only one tower (in the west front), is built--with the evident intention of
raising another in the same aspect. They were repairing the west front,
which is somewhat elaborately ornamented; but so intensely hot was the
sun--on our coming out to examine it--that we were obliged to retreat into
the interior, which seemed to contain the atmosphere of a different
climate. A tall, well-dressed, elderly priest, in company with a
middle-aged lady, were ascending the front steps to attend divine service.
Hot as it was, the priest saluted us, and stood a half minute without his
black cap--with the piercing rays of the sun upon a bald head. The bell
tolled softly, and there was a quiet calm about the whole which almost
invited, us to _postpone_ our attack upon the dinner we had ordered.
Ten francs for a miserable cutlet--and a yet more wretchedly-p
|