om keeping such open house, with greater
adroitness and good humour than does the Baron Denon. I have sometimes
found his principal rooms entirely filled by my countrymen and
countrywomen; and I once, from the purest accident, headed a party of
_twenty-two_ ... in which were three British officers, and more than that
number of members of either University. I will fairly own that, on
receiving us, he drew me quietly aside, and observed:--"Mon ami, quand vous
viendrez une autre fois, ne commandez pas, je vous prie, une armee si
nombreuse. Je m'imaginois encore en Egypte." What was still more
perplexing, we found there a party of English as numerous as ourselves. It
was thus, however, that he rebuked my indiscretion.

We had twice exchanged visits and cards before we met. The card of Denon
was worth possessing, from the simple, unaffected modesty which it evinced.
You merely read the word DENON upon it!... The owner of the collection
which I am about to describe, is certainly "un peu passe" as to years; but
he has a cheerful countenance, with the tint of health upon it; small,
gray, sparkling eyes, and teeth both regular and white.[165] He is
generally dressed in black, and always as a gentleman. His figure, not
above the middle height, is well formed; and his step is at once light and
firm. There is doubtless a good deal which is very prepossessing in his
manners. As he understands nothing of the English language, he can of
course neither read nor speak it.

It is now time to give you some idea of this curious collection. You ascend
a lofty and commodious stone staircase (not very common in Paris) and stop
at the _first_ floor:--another comfort, also very rare in Paris. This
collection is contained in about half a dozen rooms: lofty, airy, and well
furnished. The greater number of these rooms faces the Seine. The first
contains a miscellaneous assemblage of bronze busts, and pictures of
Teniers, Watteau, and of the more modern School of Paris. Of these, the
Watteau is singular, rather than happy, from its size.[166] The two Teniers
are light, thin, pictures; sketches of pigs and asses; but they are very
covetable morsels of the artist.[167] In a corner, stands the skeleton of a
female mummy in a glass case, of which the integuments are preserved in a
basket. This is thought to be equally precious and uncommon. M. Denon shews
the foot of the figure (which is mere bone and muscle) with amazing triumph
and satisfaction. He t