used by the knights and
soldiers in the days of old, are very expensive and at the present
time practically impossible to obtain. The accompanying
illustration shows four designs of swords that anyone can make,
and if carefully made, they will look very much like the genuine
article.

The drawings are so plain that the amateur armorer should have
very little difficulty, if any, in building up his work from the
illustrations, whether he requires a single sword only, or a
complete suit of armor, full size.

The pieces. or designs in this article are from authentic sources,
says the English Mechanic, so that where names are given the
amateur can so label them, and will thereby greatly add to their
interest and value.

An executioners' sword of the fifteenth century is shown in Fig.
1. The blade should be about 27 in. long with a handle of
sufficient length to be grasped by both hands. The width of the
blade near the handle is about 2-1/2 in., tapering down to 1-1/2
in. near the point end. Several ridges are cut around the handle
to permit a firm grip. The cross guard is flat and about 1 in. in
width.

Mark out the shape and size of the blade on a piece of wood 1/8
in. thick, using a straightedge and a pencil, and allowing a few
inches more in length on which to fasten the handle. Cut out the
wood with a scroll saw or a keyhole saw, trim the edges down thin
and smooth both surfaces with fine sandpaper. The end for the
handle is cut about 1 in. wide and 2 in. long. The cross guard is
cut out and a hole made in the center through which to pass the
handle end of the blade. The handle is next made, and if the
amateur does not possess a lathe on which to turn the shape of the
handle, the ridges around the wood may be imitated by gluing and
tacking on pieces of small rope. The handle is then mortised to
receive the 1 by 2-in. end of the blade. The cross guard is now
glued and placed

[Illustration: Swords; Fig. 1, Fig. 2, Fig. 3, Fig. 4]

on the blade, then the hole in the handle is well glued with glue
that is not too thick and quite hot. The blade with the cross
guard is inserted in the handle and allowed to set. When the glue
is thoroughly dry, remove the surplus with a sharp knife and paint
the handle with brown, dark red, or green oil paint. The blade is
covered with tinfoil to give it the appearance of steel. Secure
some pieces of tinfoil and cut one strip 1/2 in. wider than the
blade and the other 1/4 in. narro