ry half as large as the United States (exclusive of Alaska), a
great proportion of the male population being lamas. With no
education, except in the books of their sect, they lead a lazy,
worthless existence, supported by the lay population and by the
money they extract by preying upon the superstitions of their
childlike brothers. Were Lamaism abolished there still would be hope
for Mongolia under a proper government, for the Mongols of to-day
are probably the equals of Genghis Khan's warriors in strength,
endurance, and virility.

The religion of Mongolia is like that of Tibet and the Dalai Lama of
Lhassa is the head of the entire Church. The Tashi Lama residing at
Tashilumpo, also in Tibet, ranks second. The Hutukhtu of Mongolia is
third in the Lama hierarchy, bearing the title _Cheptsundampa
Hutukhtu_ (Venerable Best Saint). According to ancient tradition,
the Hutukhtu never dies; his spirit simply reappears in the person
of some newly born infant and thus comes forth reembodied. The names
of infants, who have been selected as possible candidates for the
honor, are written upon slips of paper incased in rolls of paste and
deposited in a golden urn. The one which is drawn is hailed as the
new incarnation.

Some years ago the eyesight of the Hutukhtu began to fail, and a
great temple was erected as a sacrifice to appease the gods. It
stands on a hill at the western end of Urga, surrounded by the tiny
wooden dwellings of the priests. "The Lama City" it is called, for
only those in the service of the Church are allowed to live within
its sacred precincts. In the temple itself there is an eighty-foot
bronze image of Buddha standing on a golden lotus flower. The great
figure is heavily gilded, incrusted with precious stones, and draped
with silken cloths.

I was fortunate in being present one day when the temple was opened
to women and the faithful in the city. Somewhat doubtful as to my
reception, I followed the crowd as it filed through an outer
pavilion between a double row of kneeling lamas in high-peaked hats
and robes of flaming yellow. I carried my hat in my hand and tried
to wear a becoming expression of humility and reverence. It was
evidently successful, for I passed unhindered into the Presence. At
the entrance stood a priest who gave me, with the others, a few
drops of holy water from a filthy jug. Silent with awe, the people
bathed their faces with the precious fluid and prostrated themselves
before the