matter of cleanliness is of no importance in his
scheme of life. When a meal has been eaten, the wooden bowl is
licked clean with the tongue; it is seldom washed. Every man and
woman usually carries through life the bodily dirt which has
accumulated in childhood, unless it is removed by some accident or
by the wear of years. One can be morally certain that it will never
be washed off by design or water. Perhaps the native is not
altogether to blame, for, except in the north, water is not
abundant. It can be found on the plains and in the Gobi Desert only
at wells and an occasional pond, and on the march it is too precious
to be wasted in the useless process of bathing. Moreover, from
September until May the bitter winds which sweep down from the
Siberian steppes furnish an unpleasant temperature in which to take
a bath.

The Mongol's food consists almost entirely of mutton, cheese, and
tea. Like all northern people, he needs an abundance of fat, and
sheep supply his wants. There is always more or less grease
distributed about his clothes and person, and when Mongols are _en
masse_ the odor of mutton and unwashed humanity is well-nigh
overpowering.

I must admit that in morality the Mongol is but little better off
than in personal cleanliness. A man may have only one lawful wife,
but may keep as many concubines as his means allow, all of whom live
with the members of the family in the single room of the _yurt_.
Adultery is openly practiced, apparently without prejudice to either
party, and polyandry is not unusual in the more remote parts of the
country.

The Mongol is _unmoral_ rather than _immoral_. He lives like an
untaught child of nature and the sense of modesty or decency, as we
conceive it, does not enter into his scheme of life. But the
operation of natural laws, which in the lower animals are successful
in maintaining the species, is fatally impaired by the loose family
relations which tend to spread disease. Unless Lamaism is abolished
I can see little hope for the rejuvenation of the race.

In writing of Urga's inhabitants and their way of life I am
neglecting the city itself. I have already told of the great temple
on the hill and its clustering lama houses which overlook and
dominate the river valley. Its ornate roof, flashing in the sun, can
be seen for many miles, like a religious beacon guiding the steps of
wandering pilgrims to the Mecca of their faith.

At the near end of the broad street below