lumsy craft, which are dragged past with long ropes.

The paddlers place meal on these rocks as an offering to the turbulent
deities, which they believe preside over spots fatal to many a large
canoe. We were slily told that native Portuguese take off their hats to
these river gods, and pass in solemn silence; when safely beyond the
promontories, they fire muskets, and, as we ought to do, give the canoe-
men grog. From the spoor of buffaloes and elephants it appears that
these animals frequent Lupata in considerable numbers, and--we have often
observed the association--the tsetse fly is common. A horse for the
Governor of Tette was sent in a canoe from Quillimane; and, lest it
should be wrecked on the Chifura and Kangomba rocks, it was put on shore
and sent in the daytime through the pass. It was of course bitten by the
tsetse, and died soon after; it was thought that the _air_ of Tette had
not agreed with it. The currents above Lupata are stronger than those
below; the country becomes more picturesque and hilly, and there is a
larger population.

The ship anchored in the stream, off Tette, on the 8th September, 1858,
and Dr. Livingstone went ashore in the boat. No sooner did the Makololo
recognize him, than they rushed to the water's edge, and manifested great
joy at seeing him again. Some were hastening to embrace him, but others
cried out, "Don't touch him, you will spoil his new clothes." The five
headmen came on board and listened in quiet sadness to the story of poor
Sekwebu, who died at the Mauritius on his way to England. "Men die in
any country," they observed, and then told us that thirty of their own
number had died of smallpox, having been bewitched by the people of
Tette, who envied them because, during the first year, none of their
party had died. Six of their young men, becoming tired of cutting
firewood for a meagre pittance, proposed to go and dance for gain before
some of the neighbouring chiefs. "Don't go," said the others, "we don't
know the people of this country;" but the young men set out and visited
an independent half-caste chief, a few miles to the north, named Chisaka,
who some years ago burned all the Portuguese villas on the north bank of
the river; afterwards the young men went to Bonga, son of another half-
caste chief, who bade defiance to the Tette authorities, and had a
stockade at the confluence of the Zambesi and Luenya, a few miles below
that village. Asking the Makololo