passes we saw bramble-berries
growing; and the many other flowers, though of great beauty, did not
remind us of youth and of home like the ungainly thorny bramble-bushes.
We were a week in crossing the highlands in a northerly direction; then
we descended into the Upper Shire Valley, which is nearly 1200 feet above
the level of the sea. This valley is wonderfully fertile, and supports a
large population. After leaving the somewhat flat-topped southern
portion, the most prominent mountain of the Zomba range is Njongone,
which has a fine stream running past its northern base. We were detained
at the end of the chain some days by one of our companions being laid up
with fever. One night we were suddenly aroused by buffaloes rushing
close by the sick-bed. We were encamped by a wood on the border of a
marsh, but our patient soon recovered, notwithstanding the unfavourable
situation, and the poor accommodation.

The Manganja country is delightfully well watered. The clear, cool,
gushing streams are very numerous. Once we passed seven fine brooks and
a spring in a single hour, and this, too, near the close of the dry
season. Mount Zomba, which is twenty miles long, and from 7000 to 8000
feet high, has a beautiful stream flowing through a verdant valley on its
summit, and running away down into Lake Shirwa. The highlands are well
wooded, and many trees, admirable for their height and timber, grow on
the various watercourses. "Is this country good for cattle?" we inquired
of a Makololo herdsman, whose occupation had given him skill in
pasturage. "Truly," he replied, "do you not see abundance of those
grasses which the cattle love, and get fat upon?" Yet the people have
but few goats, and fewer sheep. With the exception of an occasional
leopard, there are no beasts of prey to disturb domestic animals. Wool-
sheep would, without doubt, thrive on these highlands. Part of the Upper
Shire valley has a lady paramount, named Nyango; and in her dominions
women rank higher and receive more respectful treatment than their
sisters on the hills.

The hill chief, Mongazi, called his wife to take charge of a present we
had given him. She dropped down on her knees, clapping her hands in
reverence, before and after receiving our presents from his lordly hands.
It was painful to see the abject manner in which the women of the hill
tribes knelt beside the path as we passed; but a great difference took
place when we got into Nyan