this kind took place in 1829, within my certain
knowledge.

I have frequently heard it said, "Go where you will, you are sure to
find a rat and a Scotchman." My having visited Bencoolen enables me to
contradict this aphorism; for I there found abundance of rats, one
Englishman, and not a single Scot. I must confess, however, that this is
the only place in which I have ever found the Englishman without the
Scot.

Cock-fighting is carried on to a great extent here, and is indulged in
by the natives, high and low. On market-days, vast numbers of natives
may be seen wending their way to the cock-pit attached to each market or
bazaar, with one of the celebrated Malay game-cocks under their arms. At
the pit, some hundreds of these birds may be seen in the hands of the
fanciers, who weigh and examine them thoroughly before betting on them.
As soon as the bets are arranged, the two birds first on the list are
brought into the centre of the pit, and armed by their owners with a
fearful spur about four inches long, of the shape of a scythe, and as
sharp as a razor. The combat seldom lasts a minute, the first charge
generally rendering one, and frequently both the combatants
_hors-de-combat_, by inflicting on them mortal wounds. Then begins the
most disgusting part of the scene. The owner of each bird takes him up,
blows into his mouth and eyes, and uses every exertion to make the poor
tortured victim give the last peck to his adversary. Failing this last
peck, the battle is a drawn one. Bets are usually paid, particularly in
the country, in gold dust, which is weighed out in small ivory
steelyards kept for the purpose. The Dutch, with their usual policy,
derive a revenue from every cock-pit within their boundary here. For my
own part, I am not inclined to blame them, and think our revenue at all
the three Straits' settlements might be materially increased, and the
scamps of those places kept in better order, by having every
gambling-house in them registered and subjected to a tax. To put a stop
to gambling in any Asiatic town, is beyond the power of man; and the
attempt to do so, only drives the gamester to the secret haunts where he
may indulge his propensity, and where, I fear, too often he becomes a
witness of, if not a participator in deeds of blood. As a grand juror in
Singapore, I have had evidence enough of this.

From Bencoolen, I proceeded to Padang, another Dutch settlement, about
two hundred miles up the coast of S