direction of the
plain, on the dense mass of fog hanging over the town and suburbs, sees
it by degrees clear away like a curtain slowly withdrawn, and the
houses, roads, bridges, &c., appear below him as if springing up there
by magic. Add to this, the fleet of shipping in the harbour, the
opposite plains of Province Wellesley, and the distant mountains
towering in the sky beyond, and a scene may be imagined, that can
scarcely be described; at least, not by my feeble pen. When I first
visited Penang, Province Wellesley was a wilderness, inhabited only by a
thin Malay population and numerous tigers.[14] It now wears another and
more pleasing aspect, large tracts of its fertile soil having been
cleared and brought under cultivation. I know no better spot for the
culture of sugar; and if it does not pay the planter here, those of
Penang or Singapore have but a poor prospect.[15] Penang harbour is a
very commodious and safe one, formed by the narrow strait between that
island and the main land. Ships of three hundred tons may here lie
within pistol-shot of the wharf in perfect safety. I have never seen the
phosphoric light occasionally thrown out by salt-water, so brilliant as
it is here. I recollect being very much struck with it, while sailing
out of the harbour about eight o'clock P. M. We had a fresh breeze, and
each tiny wave looked like a flash of very bright flame, while the
ship's wake resembled the tail of a brilliant comet, more than any thing
else. I leave the naturalist to account for this.

[Footnote 14: Although the jungles of Penang abound with
tigers, I have seldom heard of their preying on man, as they do
in the neighbouring settlement.]

[Footnote 15: Oct. 1845.--Penang has increased in importance
since the foregoing was written. Its sugar-planters have
continued their exertions with energy, sparing neither trouble
nor expense to make their plantations profitable investments.
It gives me much pleasure to be able to add, that their success
seems certain, and that their perseverance in petitioning
Government on the subject of duties, has at length been
rewarded, as it ought sooner to have been.]

CHAPTER VII.

CALCUTTA.

FIRST VIEW OF CALCUTTA--STATE OF SOCIETY--
MERCANTILE CHANGES--UNPLEASANT CLIMATE--SIGHTS
AT AND NEAR CALCUTTA--IMPROVEMENTS IN TRANSIT
AND NAVIGATION--CUSTOM-HOUSE NUISANCE--PILOT
SERVICE--CHARACTER OF THE BENGALEES--RIVER