STEAMERS.

In 1829, I visited for the first time the far-famed city of Calcutta,
and have since then paid it four visits. So much, however, has been
written about the "City of Palaces," that it must be nearly as well
known to the English reader as London itself; and I shall therefore say
less respecting it.

The feeling I experienced on first making the land at the mouth of the
Hooghly, was extreme disappointment. To a stranger coming, as I did,
from Java, Singapore, and Penang, nothing can have a more dreary and
desolate appearance than the land about and below Kedgeree. The very
sight is almost enough to bring on the ague; and the abominably filthy
water of the holy stream heightens the feeling of disgust. From Kedgeree
to Diamond Harbour, the view on the low banks of the river improves but
little. Above Diamond Harbour, the river banks are somewhat higher,
buildings are more numerous, and the country appears more cleared and
brought under cultivation. On arriving at Garden Reach, the stranger may
begin to imagine that not wholly without reason Calcutta has acquired
the proud title of the "City of palaces." From the lower part of this
Reach, on the right, the river bank is laid out in large gardens, each
with a handsome mansion in its centre; and the whole scene speaks of
opulence and splendour. Of late years, these magnificent residences have
been much neglected, and what was once the most fashionable part of the
suburbs, has been nearly deserted by the great folk. The reason assigned
for this, is, that the river, in very wet seasons, overflows its banks,
breeding malaria and fever, from which, at the time of my second visit,
the inhabitants suffered not a little. For a year or two, these mansions
stood empty; but, when I last saw them, in 1840, they were nearly all
occupied by mercantile men, who find them pleasant retreats from the
bustle of the city, and seem willing to brave the chance of fever. On
approaching the head of Garden Reach, the stranger all at once beholds
Fort William and the town of Calcutta spread out before him; and a
splendid view it is. Should he arrive in the month of November or
December, he will behold, perhaps, the finest fleet of merchant shipping
the world could produce. Here are seen, besides the flag of Old England,
those of America, France, Holland, Spain, Portugal, and Arabia. I must
not forget to mention the floating taverns or large passenger ships,
which carry home from twenty to