. Made in Ayr, Lanark and Renfrew and sold in the markets of
Kilmarnock, Kirkcudbright and Wigtown.

Durak
_Turkey_

Mixed with butter; mellow and smoky. Costs three dollars a pound.

Duralag, or Bgug-Panir
_Armenia_

Sheep; semisoft to brittle hard; square; sharp but mellow and tangy
with herbs. Sometimes salty from lying in a brine bath from two days
to two months.

Durmar, Rarush _see_ Rarush.

Dutch
_Holland_

Cream cheese of skim milk, very perishable spread.

Dutch cheese

American vernacular for cottage or pot cheese.

Dutch Cream Cheese
_England_

Made in England although called Dutch. Contains eggs, and is therefore
richer than Dutch cream cheese in Holland itself. In America we call
the original Holland-kind Dutch, cottage, pot, and farmer.

Dutch Mill
_U.S.A._

A specialty of Oakland, California.

Dutch Red Balls

English name for Edam.

E

Echourgnac, Trappe d'
_Perigord, France_

Trappist monastery Port-Salut made in Limousin.

Edam _see_ Chapter 3.

Egg
_Finland_

Semihard. One of the few cheeses made by adding eggs to the curds.
Others are Dutch Cream Cheese of England; German Dotter; French
Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese), and Westphalian. Authorities agree that
these should be labeled "egg cheese" so the buyers won't be fooled by
their richness. The Finns age their eggs even as the Chinese ripen
their hundred-year-old eggs, by burying them in grain, as all
Scandinavians do, and the Scotch as well, in the oat bin. But none of
them is left a century to ripen, as eggs are said to be in China.

Elbinger, or Elbing
_West Prussia_

Hard; crumbly; sharp. Made of whole milk except in winter when it is
skimmed. Also known as Werderkaese and Niederungskaese.

Ekiwani
_Caucasus_

Hard; sheep; white; sharp; salty with some of the brine it's bathed
in.

Elisavetpolen, or Eriwani
_Caucasus_

Hard; sheep; sweetish-sharp and slightly salty when fresh from the
brine bath. Also called Kasach (Cossack), Tali, Kurini and Karab in
different locales.

Elmo Table
_Italy_

Soft, mellow, tasty.

Emiliano
_Italy_

Hard; flavor varies from mild to sharp. Parmesan type.

Emmentaler
_Switzerland_

There are so many, many types of this celebrated Swiss all around the
world that we're not surprised to find Lapland reindeer milk cheese
listed as similar to Emmentaler of the hardest variety. (_See_ Chapter
3, _also_ Vacherin Fondu.)

"En enveloppe"

French phrase of packag