n
from the Greek, entitled, _Voyage du jeune Anacharsis en Grece vers le
milieu du quatrieme siecle avant l'ere vulgaire par J. J. Barthelemy_,
Paris, 1824. Vaerst has amplified the excerpts from the young
traveler's observations by quotations from other ancient Greek writers
upon the subject, thus giving us a most beautiful and authentic ideal
description of Greek table manners and habits when Athens had reached
the height in culture, refinement and political greatness.

Anacharsis was not a Hellene but a Scythian visitor. By his own
admission he is no authority on Grecian cookery, but as a reporter he
excels.

This truly Hellenic discussion of the art of eating and living at the
table of the cultured Athenians is the most profound discourse we know
of, ancient or modern, on eating. The wisdom revealed in this tale is
lasting, and, like Greek marble, consummate in external beauty and
inner worth.

We thus possess the testimony of two contemporary writers which
together with the book of Apicius and with what we learn from
Athenaeus should give a fair picture of ancient eating and cookery.

Apicius is our most substantial witness.

Unfortunately, this source has not been spared by meddlesome men, and
it has not reached us in its pristine condition. As a matter of fact,
Apicius has been badly mauled throughout the centuries. This book has
always attracted attention, never has it met with indifference. In the
middle ages it became the object of intensive study, interpretation,
controversy--in short it has attracted interest that has lasted into
modern times.

When, with the advent of the dark ages, it ceased to be a practical
cookery book, it became a treasure cherished by the few who preserved
the classical literature, and after the invention of printing it
became the object of curiosity, even mystery. Some interpreters waxed
enthusiastic over it, others who failed to understand it, condemned it
as hopeless and worthless.

The pages of our Apiciana plainly show the lasting interest in our
ancient book, particularly ever since its presence became a matter of
common knowledge during the first century of printing.

The Apicius book is the most ancient of European cookery books.
However, Platina's work, _de honesta uolvptate_, is the first cookery
book to appear in print. Platina, in 1474, was more up-to-date. His
book had a larger circulation. But its vogue stopped after a century
while Apicius marched on through