rmerly
for red rags or glass beads--such golden times for travellers are
over. They demanded money, and were as grasping and cunning in
their dealings as the most civilized Europeans. I offered one of
them a small bronze ring; he took it, smelt it, shook his head, and
gave me to understand that it was not gold. He remarked another
ring on my finger, and seizing hold of my hand, smelt this second
ring as well, then twisted his face into a friendly smile, and made
signs for me to give him the ornament in question. I afterwards had
frequent opportunities of remarking that the natives of these
islands have the power of distinguishing between pure and
counterfeit gold by the smell.

Some years ago the island of Tahiti was under the protection of the
English, but at present it is under that of the French. It had long
been a subject of dispute between the two nations, until a friendly
understanding was at last come to in November, 1846. Queen Pomare,
who had fled to another island, had returned to Papeiti five weeks
before my arrival. She resides in a four-roomed house, and dines
daily, with her family, at the governor's table. The French
government is having a handsome house built for her use, and allows
her a pension of 25,000 francs per annum (1 pounds,041 13s. 4d.).
No stranger is allowed to visit her without the governor's
permission, but this is easily obtained.

Papeiti was full of French troops, and several men-of-war were lying
at anchor.

The place contains three or four thousand inhabitants, and consists
of a row of small wooden houses, skirting the harbour, and separated
by small gardens. In the immediate background is a fine wood, with
a number of huts scattered about in different parts of it.

The principal buildings are--the governor's house, the French
magazines, the military bakehouse, the barracks, and the queen's
house, which however is not quite completed. Besides these, a
number of small wooden houses were in the course of erection, the
want of them being greatly felt; at the time of my visit even
officers of high rank were obliged to be contented with the most
wretched huts.

I went from hut to hut in the hopes of being able to obtain some
small room or other; but in vain, all were already occupied. I was
at last obliged to be satisfied with a small piece of ground, which
I found at a carpenter's, whose room was already inhabited by four
different individuals. I was shown a place behin